At least you're using a big enough trailer. Dual axles under a car trailer is a must, as the tires on single axle trailers just aren't up to the task. Hopefully the trailer has brakes, too. If not, make sure the tow vehicle has enough mass and brakes to handle the load. It's a bad thing if you need to make an emergancy stop and the trailer just keeps shoving you along the road!

Put at least 200 pounds on the tongue. Less than that and you take the chance that the trailer may decide to sway out of control. NEVER tow with more weight on the rear of the trailer than on the front. If you have to sit on the tongue of the trailer to get it to go down, move your load forward.

The way you tie the car down will depend a lot on how the trailer is set up. Hopefully it has attachment points in the bed, so you aren't pulling sideways when you tighten the straps.

I have used heavy nylon webbing, but you need the stuff they use to tie down plane cargoes with, not the wimpy straps you can buy at the hardware store. Each strap should be able to handle 1000 pounds pull at a minimum.

I prefer to use chain. Good chain isn't cheap, but with links at least 3/8 think and welded, you should be able to make a safe trip. To snug them down I use a load binder, like the truckers use. I put some padding between the chain and the axle to prevent chipping my paint. Pretty simple, safe, and usually cheaper.

By all means, attach your chains or straps to the rear axle, and if possible, on some SPRUNG part of the front suspension. If you don't see anything up front that looks like it would take the stress, use the front crossmember.

The idea is to let the car's suspension aid with adsorbing the bumps, lessening the stress on the straps or chain holding the car in place.

Drive a few miles and stop and check the tie-downs. Take up any slack that has appeared.

HAVE FUN!

Steve