Hi All,

I just wanted to share my latest efforts on my car's rolling restoration/modification. I spent last week tackling the inner front fenders. Mine looked OK, but had some rust bleeding through the paint inside the engine bay...not a good sign. Anyway, it is all done - I had two different panels, one an old Volvo replacement and the other was a newer one. The newer one fit really well - the Volvo one did not. Nothing else of note - it's just lots of work and panel fitting.

Here's the shots:









The Volvo inner fender...







The newer panel.






I had some time earlier in the week and decided to build a set of covers to hide the wiring, relays etc. They are attached with 1/4 turn Dzus fasteners. I also mounted studs everywhere and there will be no holes drilled into my inner fenders - should last a little longer than the originals.

nice job, mine is just about to have the same on the drivers side.

Fantastic information! I have this job to do on my '66.....Would really appreciate any more pics of the process.

It just makes things soooo much easier if you can see in advance what to expect..

I'll pm my email address if thats OK.

Cheers
Gerry
(nr Glasgow, Scotland)

Hi Gerry,

I don't have many more photo's, but I'll try to explain the process. First get the fenders off...rusted bolts etc. make this fun. Then I used my reciprocating saw (sawsall) to cut along the inner fender arch and up along the footwell. Then cut off the radiator support section and separate the top section with a grinder with a fine cut-off wheel. The replacement panel is designed to fit under the existing fender.

I punched a series of 3/16" holes along the edge of the inner fender so that I could button weld then panel in place. For the test fit, you have to tack weld the top and bottom of the panel in place...don't worry if the bottom of the panel does not align with the existing fender just yet. There isn't that much adjustment in the fender, so this is the part that takes time. Trial fit the fender and check the hood and door gaps, you can adjust things by moving inner fender prior to welding. Then weld the firewall flange and recheck the fender gaps. I then welded the corner where the firewall intersects the wheel well (at the base of the angle part of the panel) and recheck fitment of the fender. This takes a little effort (a second set of hands would have been helpful).

Next button weld the holes that you punched, making sure that the replacement panel is in contact with the upper by hammering it up as you go. Once I welded this in place I coated it inside and out with POR-15 rust treatment (I had coated the inside of the box section prior to welding and after I added the studs to the inside). I gave it two coats, that should do the trick. Tonight I will apply a polyurethane seam sealer and then under coat the inside of the fender and inner parts prior to reassembly. This should keep the rust at bay.

Hope this helps.
Craig

The hard part of this job is finishing off the welded join between the new panel and the inner wing/fender so you can't see the job has been done. Those covers can cover a multitude of sins! Often the rust is where the box section joins the vertical panel. This menas you can slice it through part the way up and make a "joddled" joint which hides easily with a skim of filler. Doing the weld along the lower junction takes some skill if it's not to look ugly. Originally the box section was a seperate part from volvo. I haven't seen one of those for a while.

Good work. I really appreciate when you post photos of your work. It inspires and also answers questions I have had.

But now I have a question: Where is your heater box? Do you have an aftermarket heater/air conditioner?

My heater is in the garage all ready to go when I get the new engine installed (may be some time). I made it through all last winter without one, and I'm in Canada! Anyway, at least my new seats are heated.

Craig