If the switch is anything like the 960's, it is the switch, they are kind of built like the infamous PNP switch. When I tore in to my switch, the thin and fragile conductor that is at the end of the arm, the conductor has pressure from a small spring that makes it slide across a flat area with little opposing conducting pads, the spacing allows for the various fuctions. Well the conductor on the end of the arm had heated up, probably from resistance or just plain use, the heat distorted the conductor, which then doesn't allow it to mate with it's opposing pad. Mine was so badly distorted I ended soldering a piece of 12 ga. copper wire to the base, used a small jewelers file on the repair to match the original shape, tweaked the forks that hold it into arm. Cleaned and regreased and it still works, about 4-5 years now.

You will have to drill out the two rivets that hold it together, I used the soldering iron to seal it back up rather than glue, just because it was faster.


DanR '94 964 332,000 miles (98,000 on the new engine)
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DanR