Well, it's been a long time coming...

Back in March(?) I posted about an engine I'd just picked up for my '67. A 0-mile 2130cc B20 job with IPD street cam, mild porting on plugged FI head, etc.

When I bought the car a couple years ago, the previous owner had recently painted the outside of the car but not the engine compartment (which was a mess). I figured this would be an opportune time to clean and paint the bay. Finally, 9 months later and a whole lot of "one thing led to another," I'm ready to drop the engine in.

I bolted up a new clutch last night and mated the the original bellhousing and M40. The engine/clutch/tranny assembly is sitting in a crate, patiently waiting for placement into their new home.
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This is the first time I'm starting a "brand new" engine. I've heard and read plenty of stories about cams going bad in the first 20 minutes, so I've been trying to formulate a strategy for success. The engine was built by a local father/son shop who do a lot of the small-block engines that end up at the local oval track, and some out at Sears Point (/Infineon). They're not volvo specialists (nor was this their first B20), but they do seem to know a LOT about engines, especially old engines. They personally race their own engines.

Mainly on their suggestions, I'm going to:

1) pull the inner set of the double valve springs. Adjust valve clearances.

2) use a pressurized priming tank to inject the 4 qts of motor oil. This screws in place of the oil pressure sensor and forces all 4 quarts through that opening, the idea being that you fill all the oil galleys before startup to minimize those first few seconds of non-lubrication. They've offered to lend me their setup.

2) fill it with 30W non-detergent motor oil.

3) add a bottle of Crane Cams Break-In Concentrate
http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&lvl=2&prt=15&showAll=yes

4) position crank at TDC. Rough-set timing (question "a" below)

5) "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" (for break in)-- I'm going to re-use some of my old aux equipment which I know works fine. Even though I have a freshly rebuilt Bosch 007 dizzy, I'm going to use the old 003 that was on the running B18. Even though I have a new ACDelco alternator & SWEM bracket, I'm going to put the old generator back on, old HS6's instead of rebuilt Dell'Orto's, etc. The water pump & HD oil pump are both brand new.

6) I ordered a small 0-6k tach. I'm sure I'd be fine w/o it, I just want reassurance that I'm within my target engine speed.

7) start 'er up and vary the engine speed 1k~2k for a couple minutes to warm things up, then ~sinusoidally 1k~3k for 30 minutes to seat the rings, valves, etc. Check and adjust timing during this period.

8) oil & filter change. Switch to "normal" (detergent) 10W-40 DINO* oil from here no out. Torque head bolts. Check valve clearances.

9) light driving (<3k RPM) for 500 miles.

10) oil & filter change. Put in the new valve springs. Valve adjustment.

11) more easy driving until the 1k mile mark. Oil & filter change. Check valve clearances.

A couple questions-

a) how do I rough-set the timing before startup? W/ crank @ TDC, do I adjust the dizzy so that it's just starting to make contact @ point-1? (contact can be checked w/ a multimeter).

b) any other suggestions?

*I also found this document to be helpful/informative: Crane Cams Flat Tappet Cam Break-In Procedure [http://www.cranecams.com/pdf/548e.pdf], which recommends never using synthetic oil for non-roller cam engines, among other useful bits.

All pointers appreciated!

You want the best full detergent 15W-40 diesel oil you can get.

You want to run the engine in the 2000-2500 rpm range for 20-30 minutes to break in the cam, go to any cam makers website or I'll give you links if you want. You need higher than 1500 because the B20 does not have a big oil gallery running along the side of the lifters like they do in American 6's & V8's. The reason for running at 2000-2500 is to reduce the pressure of the springs on the lobes & to ensure that there is plenty of oil flinging around in the crankcase.

I'd drop the oil out after the cam break in period & check for anything shiny. Then make sure all the lobes survived. You absolutely do not want to be driving around for 500 miles if the oil contains the ground up remains of one lobe mixed in it. That does your rings & bearings no good at all.

I'd only use 2 litres to prime & tip the other 2 litres in just before you start it so that you have a bit around the lifters.

then ~sinusoidally 1k~3k for 30 minutes to seat the rings, valves, etc

Actually, the rings don't do any bedding in while doing the cam break in, you may even notice that the blowby increases during the first 20 minutes. The rings will bed in when you get on the road & give it full throttle around 2500-4000.

Do NOT use non-detergent oil to break in the engine. That's a myth that should have died years ago. Use a good 10W-30 of any brand and be done with it.
If the engine can't be started on the two valve springs now, then something is wrong. The inners don't add load anyways, they change the harmonics of the spring package. Leave them in.
Just add the oil and crank the engine for a bit with the spark plugs out. That will build oil pressure and fill the filter.
If you are fussy, go to a GM dealer and get their break-in oil supplement. Add that. It's OK to use - no other additives though.
Static timing is a bit of a trick. Get someone locally to show you.
Fire it up and don't allow it to idle for a good 30 minutes. Keep the engine at 1500 rpm or so, and rev it gently by hand. You'll be hovering nearby anyways, so diddle the throttle and stay happy.
Then drive it and see how it does. The rings won't seat until the engine sees a load - half throttle, half rpm. So what happens if you over rev a bit, or add too much throttle? Nothing.
I change the oil at 500 miles or so.
All the fussy business in the world is no substitute for proper machine work and assembly practices. If that's done right, no "break-in" is needed. If not, then all the special "tricks" will be for nought.
For what it is worth, all new Volvo engines, and those from all other manufacturers really, are run to full load, redline, before installation in the car.
Why worry?

The inners don't add load anyways, they change the harmonics of the spring package.

The inners make up 1/3 of the pressure & rate. If you leave them out you drastically lower the spring rate & pressure over the nose.

Use a oil pressure gauge during first start. You will know if there is a problem quick.