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Well, it's been a long time coming...
Back in March(?) I posted about an engine I'd just picked up for my '67. A 0-mile 2130cc B20 job with IPD street cam, mild porting on plugged FI head, etc.
When I bought the car a couple years ago, the previous owner had recently painted the outside of the car but not the engine compartment (which was a mess). I figured this would be an opportune time to clean and paint the bay. Finally, 9 months later and a whole lot of "one thing led to another," I'm ready to drop the engine in.
I bolted up a new clutch last night and mated the the original bellhousing and M40. The engine/clutch/tranny assembly is sitting in a crate, patiently waiting for placement into their new home.
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This is the first time I'm starting a "brand new" engine. I've heard and read plenty of stories about cams going bad in the first 20 minutes, so I've been trying to formulate a strategy for success. The engine was built by a local father/son shop who do a lot of the small-block engines that end up at the local oval track, and some out at Sears Point (/Infineon). They're not volvo specialists (nor was this their first B20), but they do seem to know a LOT about engines, especially old engines. They personally race their own engines.
Mainly on their suggestions, I'm going to:
1) pull the inner set of the double valve springs. Adjust valve clearances.
2) use a pressurized priming tank to inject the 4 qts of motor oil. This screws in place of the oil pressure sensor and forces all 4 quarts through that opening, the idea being that you fill all the oil galleys before startup to minimize those first few seconds of non-lubrication. They've offered to lend me their setup.
2) fill it with 30W non-detergent motor oil.
3) add a bottle of Crane Cams Break-In Concentrate
http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&lvl=2&prt=15&showAll=yes
4) position crank at TDC. Rough-set timing (question "a" below)
5) "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" (for break in)-- I'm going to re-use some of my old aux equipment which I know works fine. Even though I have a freshly rebuilt Bosch 007 dizzy, I'm going to use the old 003 that was on the running B18. Even though I have a new ACDelco alternator & SWEM bracket, I'm going to put the old generator back on, old HS6's instead of rebuilt Dell'Orto's, etc. The water pump & HD oil pump are both brand new.
6) I ordered a small 0-6k tach. I'm sure I'd be fine w/o it, I just want reassurance that I'm within my target engine speed.
7) start 'er up and vary the engine speed 1k~2k for a couple minutes to warm things up, then ~sinusoidally 1k~3k for 30 minutes to seat the rings, valves, etc. Check and adjust timing during this period.
8) oil & filter change. Switch to "normal" (detergent) 10W-40 DINO* oil from here no out. Torque head bolts. Check valve clearances.
9) light driving (<3k RPM) for 500 miles.
10) oil & filter change. Put in the new valve springs. Valve adjustment.
11) more easy driving until the 1k mile mark. Oil & filter change. Check valve clearances.
A couple questions-
a) how do I rough-set the timing before startup? W/ crank @ TDC, do I adjust the dizzy so that it's just starting to make contact @ point-1? (contact can be checked w/ a multimeter).
b) any other suggestions?
*I also found this document to be helpful/informative: Crane Cams Flat Tappet Cam Break-In Procedure [http://www.cranecams.com/pdf/548e.pdf], which recommends never using synthetic oil for non-roller cam engines, among other useful bits.
All pointers appreciated!
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