Hi guys,

When the weather gets warm, I plan to do my timing belt and other associated stuff. Besides the timing belt itself, which was replaced about 100,000 miles ago, I'm pretty sure the water pump and the tensioner were replaced too, at the same time (March 1998, at the dealer).

What items should I check on (harmonic balancer, other belts, etc.) before I place my order with FCP? How do I check each item?

Thanks!

Ari

Do I need the $45.00 counterhold tool if I don't replace my harmonic balancer?

Will I need a belt thingamajiggy tool to do the accessory belts?

Ari

"Do I need the $45.00 counterhold tool if I don't replace my harmonic balancer?"

You need to remove the HB whether you replace it or not. For that you need a counterhold.

I own both counterhold tools for the B230 and B21/23, but no longer use either one. Instead, I prefer a piece of cotton clothesline (nylon or similar is OK too), for what is called "The Rope Trick". It's quicker and easier than the "tool", and the basic steps are simple:

1 - Pull plugs and rotate crank to #1 0° TDC Compression
2 - Verify #1 and #2 valves closed - look thru oil fill hole, #1 cam pointed slightly up and inboard, #2 pointed horizontally outboard.
3 - Rotate crank about 90° past TDC.
4 - Stuff about 3 feet of clothesline into # 1 plug hole, leaving 6" outside (feeding the rope in thru a short length of heater hose makes the job even quicker).
5 - Rotate the crank backwards until the packed rope stops further rotation.
6 - Use socket, breaker bar, and pipe extension to loosen pulley bolt.
7 - Tighten bolt the same way, but start with crank about 90° before #1 TDC Comp.
8 - When tight to spec, back the crank up a little a little and remove clothesline.

To my knowledge, this is the only "trick" holding tool alternative that allows tightening the bolt to book spec of 44 lb ft, then an additional 60° (B230), or 122 ft lbs. for B21/23.

Here's what some first-time users had to say:

• "The "rope trick" for holding the engine still while removing the harmonic balancer bolt worked like a charm. Honestly, I doubted that it would, but WOW!"

• "I finally had an opportunity today to use one of the "rope" tricks to help take off the crank bolt. All I can say is - it worked like a charm! Two seconds and I had the crank bolt off..."

* "I did this a few weeks ago exactly as ... described and it couldn't have been easier." 5/29/05

• "....the rope trick worked like a charm to loosen and tighten the crank pulley bolt!!," 12/28/05

• "tryed the . . . method without any luck but the rope trick worked fine to remove the pully bolt" 1-10-06

• "(thanks for the rope trick! Worked like a charm.)" 6-26-06

• "i just completed the task using the rope trick and my opinion is that it is extremely gentle as compared to jamming a screw driver anywhere. it required about 5 to 6 ft. of 1/4 inch rope and made mission impossible mission simple."

• 4-25-07 at http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=1178645.


--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

I have a 1980 242 DL normally aspirated that I used your rope trick.

I managed to prevent the crankshaft from rotating backwards, but the bolt still will not come off. I used a propane torch and a 2 foot breaker bar with a 3 foot cheater bar and the manual transmission in first gear. Any suggestions?

I know you're trying to reach Bruce Young (lucid) to ask about "his" rope trick. It reminds me of the many folks he helped by convincing them to try something that could be a bit scary for neophyte mechanics who possibly never saw the insides of a motor except in books, or maybe today, you-tubes.

The rope trick is something I use regularly, and as my research proved, has been in use since the 19th century in various forms. There are naysayers as well, some among those who do see the insides of engines (most of which I picture to be Japanese-designed) who say they would never introduce such a foreign material into the combustion chamber to block the piston travel.

My take is these Swedish engines are more like the overbuilt tractor and farm engines which survived rope insertions for 140 years. Sure, it can be a disaster for the newbie; the rope stuffing might be way too little and actually be compressed into the chamber at the lowest of crank angles where the force at the bearing would be highest, and even roll past TDC. Or someone doesn't understand the valves need to be closed. But Bruce has explained it so well, I can't imagine anyone hurting a Volvo with his instruction.

I lost my friend Bruce Young 1/22/17.


--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Sometimes, we just need to remember what the rules of life really are:
A. You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape.
B. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40.
C. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.

OMG. The rope won't come out. It is knotted inside. Now I have to take the head off. ***k. So much for an easy job.

Can I have your counterhold tool for the B230? :)

Ari

You sound like you're selling this method - the first Brickboard infomercial. :)

Sounds good, though. Tell me, how is the stress on the engine parts distributed using the counterhold bar? With the rope trick, I assume that no more stress is put on the piston than a pocket of exploding gasoline would - but all that pressure on one cylinder makes me nervous.

I guess the rope trick also means that you can do the job yourself, rather than have a buddy hold the counterhold tool while you crank the bolt with a socket and a cheater pipe?

Sounds fun either way.

Thanks,

Ari

I am going to tell the truth about myself: If there's a shortcut that I can take and get away with it, I'll do it.
But I never liked the sound of the rope trick for a very vague but unshakeable reason. I believe that the forces the rotating assembly undergo are explosive, but instantaneous and of small magnitude compared to the tightening of the bolt against one cylinder. A rapidly expanding gas is not a solid object.
One might argue that an engine makes over one hundred pound feet of torque and therefore must apply greater force continually to each piston. Not so. That number represents the twisting force generated by the entire rotating assembly with all its mass spinning at 2000 rpm. This assembly, by design, undergoes virtually NO force when motionless. The aim of internal combustion engine design has become for such accuracy and efficiency, that each component does its job perfectly and without a gram too much mass or strength than it needs in any one place to do THAT job. The result of this is an assembly of parts whose design makes accomodation for doing ONE thing very well for a very long time and NOTHING else. Nothing else including having solid objects compressed in her combustion chambers.
These are forgiving engines and so many people do it, I know. But I won't
Buy or borrow the tool.

"Tell me, how is the stress on the engine parts distributed using the counterhold bar?"

One end of the tool engages 3 slots in the pulley—unless it's a cheapie, which may be too roughly finished for the tool to fit. The upper end fits on the tensioner bolt and is secured with the nut. I think it's shown installed in the IPD catalog. Here's a pic from IPd's site:



The twisting stress is applied laterally to the end of the bolt. Not a problem, IMO.
Nor is the rope—just quicker, easier, and cheaper.

Yes, I'm "selling" the rope trick because it works. Why spend $45± when it's not necessary? And I got tired of arguing with the nay-sayers who had never tried it. It seemed easier just to list the first-timer successes.
--
Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

YES. Something is needed to hold the crankshaft still while you remove the big bolt holding the H-balancer as well as the timing belt sprocket behind it.
The tool proves its value, not when REMOVING the crank pulley bolt, but when it's time to REPLACE and tighten the bolt. NOTHING is nearly at wonderful to have at that time. (removal can be easily done with a socket and an 18 inch flex handle layed on the floor (driver's side) and a bump of the starter, but when you try to tighten the bolt, your tool will only turn the motor over and all other methods for holding are very shade tree or risky)
I just did my T-belt and looking back...buy it. Hey sometimes there's a brickboard member in your town who will meet you and loan you one. Try a post to that effect!

NO. Just a 10mm and 13mm socket + short extension will loosen all the belt tensioners sufficiently to get them off. (A/C is a little tough-turning pulley to work it off helps) I ruined a tensioner my first time because I didn't understand how they work. Back off the 13mm on the front of the device before adjusting the 10mm on the side of each tensioner. The big one acts as a locking device and the 10 mm driven shaft will strip right out if you don't. Have fun!

A set of conti drive belts is cheap at FCP and they will be off anyway so I'd do 'em unless yours are fresh.

ALWAYS do the tensioner! Get the Continental timing belt/tensioner kit. The shop that sold me my car said they put a new T-belt on every car they sell...They did. but 20k later, the Belt was burned up by the original tensioner. Way to go, VOL-TECH, (Austin, TX)!

Have a set of front seals ready. (mainly the crank seal and the camshaft seal a distant second as biggest offenders.) If all is dry, I'd leave 'em alone and get your $ back. (they're a challenge, and some poeple damage them putting them in.)

Lots of people say "do the water pump while the T-cover is off". BUT if it's a VOLVO water pump, like you suggest, you've got another timing belt to go before changing it...Unless the belts were over-tightened, of course. I just checked my original pump at 142k and NO shaft play at all! Just have a NEW one at the ready, (Pep Boys has BOSCH right now-25 bucks) and if there's no end-play or wobble in the shaft and the weep hole is clean AND it's VOLVO, take the Bosch back. These pumps are like the rest of the car-Duralicious!

Best way to quickly check the balancer is to hook up a timing light. If the car runs well and the timing is on, Youre fine. They're easy to replace at T-belt time, but cost fifty(ebay)to a hundred bucks(indep.)and some never slip.

Don't get me wrong, if you've got the money set aside, replace it ALL.
I'd rather let sleeping dog's lie and save my car maintenence money for the other stuff that is going to break for sure.