Thanks everyone for all the tips. Although worth a good laugh when I suggested it to her, the wife did not find any bushings in the freezer, nor control arms in the oven.

After three coats of POR-15 I attempted to install the new bushings. I got the Boge/Volvo's in the brackets, I had to take the arms back to the machine shop and they pressed them in for a 12 pack of Lone Star- our Texas cheep but o-so-tasty-on-a-hot-day beer. The POR-15 is great stuff and levels out like it was powder coated. I would put this on any metal part on my Volvo and when I get a new windshield, I'll put a precise coat around the metal of the window and extend it a 1/4" past where the rubber seal rests to keep it nice and rust proof.

(ADD IN: I received a ScanTech control arm from FCP and in my opinion the thing looked spot-on original. Welds looked great, metal looked the same thickness and the weight felt identical. However, I did not do any measuring to ensure this. I would not hesitate to put one one my car in the future.)

It's really easy to remove the CA's by taking the sway bar link nut off, then the bolt to the front of CA, then the three bracket bolts. Then remove the three bolts holding CA to the ball joint. Reverse the process to install. I made sure the notches in the rear CA bush were lined up in the bracket North,S,E & West. I tightend the rear bracket nut to torque AFTER using another jack to raise the control arm/strut assembly underneath the ball joint to the point the rear portion of the CA arm metal was parallel to the ground (and the East-West notches)- the "normal" resting spot. You'll know what I mean.

Note: I also put new bushings on the sway bar links. FCP sells ROCK HARD yellow urethane bushings and these are great. IPD sells (to me anyway) mushy soft royal blue urethane in the "kit." I hated these. They are way softer than the original rubber sway bushings and made the sway bar action sloppy. I got into a disagreement with someone on the board months ago as they insisted all urethane is "better" in a nut shell. Not true. Proper durometer (hardness) is essential. Nuff said.

That said, I went all Boge/Volvo rubber on the control arm bushings only because I didn't want to wait 45+ days for the front CA bushes to come from SuperPro in Australia to Teim in California to IPD/FCP to me. After the experience above, I did not want to have rubber fronts and Urethane rears, betting that durometer will be different between the two. Anyway...final result is a HUGE difference in handling. NO MORE CLUNKS felt in the driver side floor board, on speed bumps or medium to slow speed emergency handling.

I finished everything off with a can of Dupli-Color rubberized undercoating from Pep Boys. INCLUDING coating the new break junction box I installed back in Nov. which was the culprit (dissolved undercoating, rusting CA's, totally shot rear position CA bushing...), for almost all of this damage and replacement in the first place from previous owner neglect.

Whew. My next 240, I will guarantee you I look REAL hard in this exact area for the same thing. I see leaking BJBoxes on junkers at the yards all the time. It seems a real common problem.

Over all, "Goldmember (as dubbed by co-worker)" was out of commission for one week. Lot of valuable lessons learned and knowledge to put in the ole' noggin'. Thanks for all the help.

After I do the rear torque rod and track rod bushings I can guarantee you I'll be letting a shop wrench on my rig for the first time in doing the trailing arm bushings. I don't think I want to tackle that one!

Brick on!
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89 245 'loaded' with a Great Pyrenees