Getting ready to swap out the tranny..
The old one is really complaining more like whining..

Does anyone have a preference of redline vs 90 wt or any other lube.
1. Will I have to loosen the motor mounts or is there enough clearance??
2. Any other caveats warnings treachery or suprises I should keep in mind.

If you feel like type a quick synopsis would be appreciated..

Again my standard offer of a Seafood lunch or dinner is offered at the Fishermans Restaurant her in San Clemente overlooking the pier if you can hang around for moral support for an hour or two..

Wear good clothes so you wont be tempted to jump in..just sit in a lawn chair and drink Cokes or cold beverages of your choice (supplied by me).

email sb2235@netzero.net

c'ya
CaliforniaOldvo

In about another month when it'll be scorching hot here in Phoenix, that offer of lunch at the pier will sound pretty tempting. :)

Too bad I don't know a thing about your transmission dilemna, except the type of 90 weight oil I recently put in mine (after thoroughly researching all options).

Here is what my research came up with for options:

Transmission oils without EP additives (non-hypoid):
Recommendation for: VOLVO (S) PV444, PV821/2, PV60, PV834, P544, 122S (1949-1960)
Engine CLASSIC MEDUIM
Gearbox TRANSOIL 90
Rear axle MILD EP GEAR OIL
Notes
v7 OVERDRIVE USE TRANSOIL 90

Oils that meet the GL4 criterion or at least compatible with the "yellow metals" in our gear boxes and diffs:
Redline MT-90 http://members.aol.com/SpiderParts/redlinealfa.html
Castrol ST90
MAXIMA MTL-E TRANSMISSION OIL, 32 OUNCE BOTTLE
Rock Oil ST90 $8.95 + $7 shipping at Scooters Originali (I purchased and used this and nothing disatrous so far in over 500? miles)

Misc notes from various places:
Transmission fluid has been well discussed on brickboard…the benefits of Redline and Amisol VS ATF or a synthetic 30W motor oil. Unfortunately the Search function here is very poor....there's pages of this stuff....1999, 2000, 2001.

Penrite make an oil called Transoil 90, it is a direct equivalent to good ol' Castrol ST90 and can be bought from Partmaster for a tad over
$10 per litre, note that SAE 90 gear oil is a similar viscosity to around SAE 40 motor oil, as their viscosities are rated/measured at different temperatures.

MTL - This 70W80 GL-4 Gear Oil (SAE 5W30/10W30 engine oil viscosity) is designed for use in manual transmissions and transaxles. Provides
excellent protection of gears and synchronizers and its balanced slipperiness provides a perfect coefficient of friction, allowing easier shifting.
Popular in many BMW transmissions and in most Honda and Acura transaxle applications. Confused with the whole viscosity issue. MTL...ATL...
70W80 is 5W30 viscosity? What? Regular ATF is a low viscosity so what is this 70W80 (sounds like Axle oil) yet they call 70/80 5/30.


Also, if I showed up, your wife might reconsider Not-getting-in-that-thing but in my experience it'd be out of pure jealousy considering I'm a 30-something female with (so I'm told) "way too many opinions about cars/car repair," so probably a bad idea all around. :-P

good luck

belinda

The trickiest part of the whole operation on a PV as to get at the upper Allen head bolts that hold the tranny to the bell housing. Its a little tight in there. I use a 1" long piece cut off a 3/8" Allen wrench fit into a socket on a wobble extension. You don't need to loosen the engine mounts, just disconnect the upper radiator hose, after draining out some coolant, and let the engine lean back on piece of 2x4 to keep the heater hoses and connections from getting crushed. Support tranny on a jack as you lower it after disconnecting the shaft flange and undoing the transmission support. It should slip right out. You should consider doing a clutch job while you have the transmission down. Don't forget to take the shift stick out! When putting the replacement in, make sure it is in gear (4th). That makes it easier to line up the splines - by manipulating the output flange. Redline will be fine, but any good gear oil will do.
Have fun!

Bob S.
--
"62 PV544 (B20, M41), "71 142E, "93 240 Classic Wagon.

Instead of draining out some coolant and then disconnecting the upper radiator hose, on the 140s I usually just remove the bolts that hold the radiator and let it pivot back with the engine. That way I don't have to open the cooling system.

It works on a 140, I think it'd work on a 544 as well.
--
Tom - '60 544, '68 220S, '70 145S, '86 745T, '06 Mazda MPV

I once tried to take the trans off the way I had in the past on 1800 and 140 cars, by unbolting the bellhousing from the motor. But the firewall/tunnel on a PV is a more confined space, and there's simply not enough clearance to remove it like that. You have to remove the trans from the bellhousing, and then the bellhousing from the motor (assuming you will be doing something with the clutch).
--
'63 PV544 rat rod, '93 Classic #1141 245 +t

John,
I was going to edit an amendment to my reply, but while I had a shower and poured myself a drink, you got here first. ;-)

I was going to say that, if he thinks he ought to do a clutch job, he'd be better off pulling the whole engine with the transmission attached. That, of course, would make anyone think seriously as to whether he needed a new clutch or not. ;-)

The other bit of advice from an old fart averse to balancing transmissions on his chest was going to be to lower a rope or strap through the shifter hole and around the tranny to help hold it up while undoing bolts and to lower it gently to the ground with. I like to run the rope over a 2x4 resting on the dash and the hat shelf, but I suppose that just a piece of pipe lying atop the shifter hole would do.

Bob S.
--
"62 PV544 (B20, M41), "71 142E, "93 240 Classic Wagon.

You might consider removing the engine and trans as a unit and that would give you the opportunity to check the clutch,flywheel, and pressure plate. If the engine and tranny need re-painting or parts replaced, it makes the job much easier. You will have to remove the hood and radiator and all other "attached" parts, such as starter wires, heater hoses, clutch linkage, shifter lever, exhaust pipe, choke and throttle linkage, generator/alternator wires, rear trans mount etc.. sounds like a lot, but probably a couple of hours. Take the nuts off the front engine mounts and as soon as you get the weight off them, remove the engine mount supports from the engine.
You will of course have to have a hoist to lift it all out, and an adjustable engine lift is worth its weight in gold. Hope this helps.
I approve this message, but will not be accountable for it's contents. Use it at your discretion.