Our 64 122s wagon runs great and turns heads where ever we go. Sadly it also dumps oil and burns oil with a not so pleasant blue cloud. I was told it has a 1967 b18b engine in it now. With the 4 speed, overdrive transmission.
I would like to pick up a used long block to rebuild in my garage, then drop it in to reduce down time on the car.
A friend told me he has an engine from a 145 sitting outside his garage and will donate it, if it would fit. I really don't want to overhaul an engine to find out it won't bolt into the car without a cutting torch or excessive duct tape. My beauty is all stock as it sits now (except the previous engine swap).

can anybody tell me what to look for? Anybody have other sugestions to find a good longblock? I live in Washington State in the USA.

Next project will be to swap out the front drum brakes and change over to a disc set up. Will need tech tips for that at well. Once again I prefer pure stock cars, but can't find a front drum.

Thanks in advance.

I've got a complete pair of front (drum) brake assemblies from a 64' wagon I'd be willing to sell. They were in good working order when I removed them from the car last year. I'm the the Beaverton, Oregon area.

The B20 swap should not be a problem, and you will find the car will get up and go noticeably better assuming the donor engine is good. You can also convert to an alternator easily too.

If you are going reuse the existing SU carbs from the B18 you should install KD or DX needles in them.

It would be a good idea to consider replacing the clutch, pilot bearing and rear main seal when you swap gearboxes, since the overdrive gearbox is a PITA to remove with the engine in the car. New motor mounts might be worth looking at too, and don't forget to use new locknuts on the driveshaft bolts.

Bill

Wow: Sounds like you will be able to help with not just technical advice, but also the brakes. I have family in Beaverton, I actually grew up in Hillsboro, when it was still a farm town. Have you had the drums checked to thickness, so I can get at leat one turn on them? As I said I am a bit of a purist and would prefer to keep the car as Sven built it, even if the disc set up is better.

I will check back with you. To find out about the brake set up and how much you would like for them.

Sorry I missed the IPD show last weekend, but had to work. Maybe next year with my car.

Where in WA are you? Were you at the ipd swap meet today in Portland? The B20 swap is just like Walrus said, as easy as putting in another B18.

Have you found your disc brake conversion parts yet? I'm sure I have everything you need in the Portland area. If theres any interest drop me an email.
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Lee 75 244 (80k original miles) 79 242 65 220 project

Missed the Ipd event due to work. Seems like work takes alot of fun out of life.
I haven't done anything yet. Still juggling other projects. I will check beack with you on the brakes. I live near Tacoma, and have family in Beaverton and Vancouver.
Thanks so much.
Allen

I may also have a B20 with many new rebuild parts (not installed)
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Lee 75 244 (80k original miles) 79 242 65 220 project

If you bolt the motor mounts from the B18 onto the B20 and keep the breather box
that came with the B20 everything else should fit OK. There are a few very minor
differences but nothing that a little judicious selection of parts won't overcome.
If the B20 had fuel injection that is even better - just plug the ports in the
head with 7/8" soft plugs (available for less than a dollar apiece at most parts
houses) and bolt up the manifolds from the B18. If you can use an exhaust manifold
with dual downpipes, so much the better.
Keep us posted on how the project goes!
--
George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!

Awesome. I do have the split exhaust manifold and hoped to keep them, as the dual exhaust makes a big impression on people. I was also hoping to keep the original twin downdrafts, as scarey as they can be. So far they have treated me well with no calibration issues.
Sounds like I can confidently start looking for a good b20. I will check my friends first, but nice to know I can grab one and drop it in.
Thanks
Allen

The exhaust with the dual downpipes makes a huge difference to the way the motor produces power. I did this conversion on the B18 engine in a 122S and was surprised how the engine seemed to deliver better performance. I have also done this with the B20 engine. Using a 2-2.25" diameter exhaust system is important as the original 120 exhaust is restricting.
As I stated elsewhere, the only thing you have to do is somehow match the differing thichness of the inlet and exhaust manifolds.
Feled

total newb here... on the subject of engine swaps... wondering if you found a 85ish volvo 240 turbo with an automatic donor car... how swappable that motor, trans and/or complete drivetrain is in terms of mounts, radiator, driveshaft, rear end into a 122...

I know there would be plenty of wiring to sort out... just wonder how all the rest would fit. I had a friend tell me that the b20 bottom end is essentially the same until the 90's, just head and cam orientation changed.... How much truth is there to that statement?

-Michael LeCompte
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-Michael LeCompte

Really this should be a discussion in another thread.

But, I drive a 122 with B21/M41 fuel injected/electronic ignition.

M41s will bolt up to OHC engines (B21/B23/B230), and M46s will bolt up to B18/B20 engines. The angle of the engine is determined by the bellhousing. A common M40/41 bellhousing can be used to mount a OHC engine upright (B18/20 oil pump and oil pan will bolt on to the engine too). There are special (rare) bellhousings to mount M45/46 to B18/20 engines ->Huke in the Netherlands sells a modified M45/46 bellhousing that are much easier to obtain:

http://www.hukebasart.nl/huke/en/?Koppelingshuizen

Also, Volvo did make a bellhousing to mount a M40/41 to an OHC engine at a slant (only used in '75 model cars in limited regions -> this one I purchased from somebody in Sweden):



Try over on VolvoAdventures.com:

http://volvoadventures.com/amazon.html

There are some turbo examples links on that page.

Engines can be mounted upright (like a B20->that's the way I did my 122), or slanted like the OHC engines. Mostly, the upright position is used-> gives more room on the passenagers side for the turbo setup.

Here's a link to a good looking B230FT setup in an 1800:

http://www.geocities.com/smosit/volvo.html

Paul

That would be a *major* project... not just getting the engine in there... (yea, bottom end similar, but sits slanted in a 240)

Transmission likely wouldn't fit (tunnel too narrow in a manual trans 122), rear end mounts totally different.

Not to mention brakes, wiring as you mentioned...

It'd be just as easy to drop a V8 or whatever in there I expect...

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-Matt I ♥ my ♂