Coming down the entrance ramp onto the highway and the old wagon just quit, like someone flicked a light switch. Not nice. While waiting for the tow truck on the shoulder of the busy interstate, I only thought to check a few things, not that I could do much in that predicament. A quick visual inspection -- belts, alternator wire, the 2 fuel pump fuses. I disconnected/reconnected the battery because sometimes that resets things. I disconnected the AMM hoping for limp home mode. No go. Turn the key and it would crank but no sign of firing up.

Made me think it would be useful in the faq to have a checklist of things to run through when we break down in the middle of nowhere, or the middle of somewhere, for that matter. (maybe it's there and I didn't see it). I feel like I've missed some obvious things.

The shop can't look at it for a few days so if any magic bullets/potions come to mind, I'd be pleased to hear and try them. Thanks as always.

Rather than do a lot of copying and pasting, here's a link to a previous post of what I keep in my car for spare parts:
200 & 700 series spare parts list. FYI, this list was posted in a thread about the life expectancy of a fuel pressure regulator.

God bless,
Fitz Fitzgerald.

hello
i carry
spare AMM
spare RS Relay
spare FI relay
spare power stage w/grease
spare ballast resistor
make sure the timing belt is kept up.
make sure the crank sensor is good to go.
carry multi meter
carry some tools.
this should cover most problems that seem to affect people on the board.
good luck
Mike

RS relay. Radio suppression (fuel injector) relay?

On a 240????

hello
i moved to 940s with one exeption, but i believe the 89 has the RSR and fuel inj relay.
Mike

I have active '89, '92 and '93 240s, and not aware of any of them having the RSR. I wish they did since would be an easy diagnosis/fix when fuse twisting and FPR fiddling doesn't work. However, what I'm curious about is why the 740 has it but the 240 doesn't.

On a related note, '93 240s seem to have a set of issues unique to '93s. I'm not sure whether anyone has completely determined the cause. Almost as if in the phasing out of the 240 and transition to 940, used up the 240 parts, and tossed in a few new ones in places unknown. Would be great to find out that stuck a RSR up under the dash somewhere, and forgot to tell anyone about it. Anyone have any insight on the '93 240 issues?

In the 240 series, the injectors gets its positive side directly from the fuel system relay, tucked up under the dash.

In the 7xx/9xx, the fuel pump relay is in the relay tray, right under the radio bay. The frequent on/off cycling of the injectors could (would???) hit a frequency that RF'd the radio, so that function was moved to the engine bay.

I got out of there for $318 -- 3 hours labor and shop supplies. Having my own belts made a huge difference. All in all, it could have been worse; namely the original $600-650 estimate. (They used my belts and decided the tensioner did not need replacement). Thanks for all the tips. I'll print them out and keep a copy in each of the 3 bricks for when something happens and there's not much time to think before the towtruck comes.

It was a broken timing belt.

The shop stated that I have an interference engine and it could be real trouble. I convinced them it's non-interference.

Shop quoted $600-$650 to replace timing belt, tensioner and drive belts. When I told them I had timing and other belts already, thanks to a doubled-up groton order last year, they cut the estimated price of the job by $200.

The towing finished off exhaust parts that were hanging by a rusty thread so that's my weekend project. I turned down their $450 cat-back estimate on that.

Thanks again, brickboard. Should that roadside breakdown checklist find its way into faq, the nominations include fuel relay, 25amp fuse, timing belt and...the rest are escaping me. Long day!

You're getting reamed.
While in there, replace seals and water pump (assuming it too is aged). Everything. Much cheaper in the long run. Entire job--belts, seals, tensioner (if needed, and probably does if belt broke), and new water pump should be under 3.5 hours shop time, IIRC.
As others have said, list probably in following order: twist/check incabin fuses, unplug/plug FPR, check main engine compartment fuse. If no luck, CPS is next likely problem (but that usually will give some failing warnings--occasional cutting out) before quitting completely. Other suspects include loose ground or loose connection in ignition switch, failed computer and, especially this time of year, failing/failed prepump creating vacuum in fuel line. Others would include power stage, but I've never experienced a problem there in 25 years (though probably will now that I've said it).

Timing belt should be $150 or so if you supply parts, they are hosing you. Dan

Thanks for getting back to us, Cal. Too often people get their bricks fixed and forget that there are 10 of us waiting to hear what the REAL problem turned out to be, and whether or not we had the winning answer.

First thing to check would be that 25amp fuse under the hood for corrosion. I had an identical incident with an elderly couple stuck in the parking lot driving a mid 80s 240 wagon. After checking pretty much the same stuff you did, it turned out to be the fuse which was corroded.

Many thanks. Yes I did check that fuse, but wasn't all that focused with the traffic whizzing by. Will take a new fuse and fuel pump relay tomorrow and see if that does it.

Most likely is fuel pump relay, crank position sensor or 25 amp fuse near the battery. Dan

Seconding the crank position sensor as a bad thing to have fail on you. That was the problem I had when my 240 died out last week. I carry a spare fuel pump relay with me. Another problem that is sorta common is the air mass meter. I see that it was the timing belt but these are common things I would check in case of an on-the-road breakdown.
--
formerly non-registered at drew b.
green 1993 240, 164k 'Cream Puff V,' formerly: blue 1988 240 DL 'Cream Puff III'

wow, fuel pump relay. Yes. I'll get one first thing and try that. I did check the fuse. If it's the sensor, I'll let the shop check/do that.

and if it's the relay, I'll get a spare and carry that. sounds like a worthy checklist thing to do. many thanks.

Put a jumper on the left side of fuses 4 and 6, if it runs the problem is the relay. If the insulation on the crank sensor has deteriorated replace it as it could be or will be shorting out. Make sure the 25 amp fuse is good and connections at the fuse and battery are solid and clean. It is almost guaranteed to be one of these things. Dan

Dan, dumb question but electricity brings out the worst in me. Do I remove the 4 and 6 fuses when I jump the left sides?

Leave them in, rotate these fuses in the holder to make sure there is good contact. You might just want to replace them. There is a chance the ECU has failed especially if it is the pink labeled 561. Dan

I appreciate the guidance. I'll let you and you all know what happens.