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What's the coke bottle method?
Brake bleeding is pretty straight forward... a Motive brake bleeder makes this super easy.
If you use the blue ATE fluid, you'll have a color coded indicator to see when the new fluid has made it's way through the line.
1/4" ID clear tubing should fit right over the bleeder nipples. With a power bleeder, you just basically pressurize it... then crack open each bleeder one at a time till the new fluid comes out. Takes all of 10 minutes.
Without a bleeder, it helps to have a helper pump the brakes: though only depress the pedal half way or so! With the bleeder open, you can push the master cylinder seals into the abrasive nether regions!
Only other note: Probably better to bleed first, then change the pads. If you opt not to bleed the brakes now, you'll want to open the bleeder nipples when you compress the caliper pistons to get the new pads in to expel the fluid. Here's why: compressing the pistons will force the old, debris-laden fluid back up into the master cylinder. This stuff can trash the seals. Better to either have nice clean new fluid going back up there, or just squeezing the old fluid out of the caliper.
-Ryan
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Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 314k, Dog-mobile
1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars
1991 745 GL 300k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars
Buckeye Volvo Club
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