You should be able to use the Haynes manual for a routine maintenance task like this. The one below is for the 2.0 and 2.3 engined 940s, there may be a seperate one for the 960, but most of the mechanical parts are similar.

Haynes Service and Repair Manual
Volvo 940 Petrol
ISBN: 1-85960-249-5
Haynes Manual No: 3249

You can pick these up for a few pounds/dollars on eBay.

You need to correctly identify the disks/rotors, brake pads and calipers fitted, as more than one type were fitted, the vehicle identification plate helps to identify the OEM parts but these may have been changed anyway. Vehicles with towbars fitted may have had the brakes upgraded from the factory standard. Note that while Volvo OEM rear pads can come with retention pins and stainless/kevlar shims, the fronts do not.

You also need to identify the correct tie rod diameter, they are either 14mm or 17mm. Unless the locknuts are in perfect condition I would also replace them, they are likely to have been chewed up or corroded onto the tie rod.

I would work on the tie rods ends first, one side at a time. While you are doing these, you can wash the dust and mud from the calipers and also the steering rack gaitors, giving them time to dry.

Inspect the steering rack gaitors carefully for damage, they only act as dust covers, but can still let water in to corrode the ball joint. Unlike traditional designs thay don't run wet in PSF, so they aren't a desperately urgent job to replace, but if the tie rods were a pain to remove it is sensible to do these ate the same time. Like the calipers there may be one of 3 types of rack fitted, so you need to check the size/length of the gaitor. Again the rack fitted may not match with that indicated by the vehicle data plate.

You may find that some of the anti-rattle springs are missing from the calipers, especially the bottom ones on ABS Girling calipers which have three per caliper.
You will probably find that the bottom caliper pins are very stiff or corroded, though the top ones may be fine. If one caliper is stiff on the pins, or has worn one pad much more tha the other, I would work on that one first. The reason is that you can only buy the pins in pairs or as a set of 4, not individually, while the pin seals are usually only available in sets of 4. You may find that only the lower pins need replacement, while the upper ones are fine and you only need a 2-pin set to do this.
Check the caliper pin seals very carefully for damage, replacing them if any is evident, they are easily damaged during servicing. This results in the outer end of the caliper pins corroding more than normal, with the debris being held in by the seal and causing premature stiffness/seizing of the pin. Once cleaned up the pins may still be serviceable, as the inner end may have little wear.