Is it "risky" to use a points file on the lower ignition trigger points?
Are these self-adjusting such that if I file the point ends down a little will they still make proper contact and fire the injectors?

Just for posterity sake, I'll reiterate that this is my 1967 122S Wagon upgraded with the engine, wheels, rear axle, brakes, and FI from a 1971 1800E.


She starts and runs, but she doesn't stop... at least not gracefully.

This morning, I pulled the trigger points unit and checked the resistances again. They match what I saw with them installed. There's nothing adjustable in there anyway. The resistance is when the points are closed, not when they break - so I could not change that. Which is sort of a "Duh" statement when I think about it...

Anyway. I reinstalled the dizzy, and re-checked the plugs to the sensorss and the FI fuses in my secondary fusebox. It then occurred to me to check the fuses in the main box and lo and behold I found #2 was blown.

I replacing the #2 fuse leaned into the car and twisted my ignition switch and...

BAM! the car fires right up and begins to idle nicely.

The replacement fuse restored the fuel injector function, re-soldering the wires to the #2 temp sensor plug restored good starting and good idle.

I had no issues restarting the car after it had warmed up or after it had sat for a while.

I think my FI is now 100% functional. Now to get back to the Amazon-Specific conversion issues.

Most people make the same mistake of looking at the trickiest thing first. Always check & recheck the simple & cheap stuff first before actually looking at the injection itself. The same thing happens with carburettors too, people will go straight to blaming the fuel side when 9 times out of 10 it turns out to be the ignition system.

Why would you do that? You're just filing away good silver.

I don't mean that I'm going to file them away - just clean up the contact surface a bit.

I'm trying to determine why my injectors have ceased to fire. They stopped working when I removed and cleaned the lower points.

I've confirmed spark, compression, timing, and fuel pressure as well as voltage at the main relay and coil.

Don't apply any abrasive to the points, just clean them & give them a light coat of WD-40. The points do not pass any current, so no real arcing happens.

Follow what Chris says about diagnosing them. You don't need an ohm meter, just a $1 test lamp is all you need. If one of the points is not opening, all you can do is bend them around to make them open again, but that's only a temporary fix. Absolutely do not bend them unless you're 100% sure they are worn out & not opening.

I pulled the dizzy and brought it inside to my desk for a check with the digital multimeter.

With manual counter-clockwise rotation and a digital meter set to the 200 ohms range, the center pin to the "left" pin (the one closer to the condenser) returns 0.6-0.7 ohms before continuity is lost. The center pin to the "right" pin (the one closer to the vacuum mechanism) returns 1.0-1.1 ohms before contact is lost. I get that normal "alternating" 360 degree reading as described in the VClassics article on Druck-Jet.

I'm a little bothered that the resistance for the left set is about half of the right set, but unless you guys suggest otherwise, I'm not going to mess with bending the contacts for a measly 0.4 ohms. That may adjust out if I loosen the screws and wiggle a bit.

Clearly they are "breaking" so I'm at a loss to explain why my injectors are no longer firing.

The Fault tracing manual does not seems to suggest much here aside from "Replace Injectors"

I'd use 600 or finer wetordry, then test IN THE DISTRIBUTOR.

Use an ohmmeter between the center terminal and each of the outboard terminals, keeping your
elbow away from the nose of the coil. As the engine cranks you should get intermittent contact
between the center and each of the outboard terminals.
Sometimes they look good but do not pulse because the plastic pusher that runs on the cam is worn.
--
George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!

I always found it easier to just pull the distributor from the car (leaving the pinch bolt tight and just removing the bolt that anchors the distro into the block) and take it to the bench where you can more easily connect the ohm meter between LH/center and then RH/center. Observe approximately how many degrees of distributor shaft rotation (dwell) you see on the ohm meter. It's not real critical, but I always went for about 180 deg of closed on each set of points because....... well, just because. Of course you have to remove the points and bend the static side of each contact and re-install (trial and error) until you get the dwell you desire.

Then when you re-install the distributor you shouldn't have to re-time the ignition, since you didn't loosen the pinch bolt.

Thanks. Given my past history with timing, I tend not to loosen the collar and I pull the whole thing as a unit. Of course the thing won't idle at all, so I can't do anything other than set static timing.

I've not checked the dizzy ohms yet but will shortly.

First off, the Volvo Fuel Injection Fault Tracing manual is a great resource. I keep forgetting about all the resources over at Volvo1800Pictures.com. Thanks Frederik!!

I was just out testing the Ohms of the sensors and found that most things are slightly below spec - but the coolant temp sensor seems to fail the standard volvo tests.

My sensor test results...
Ohms between the pins on the coolant temp sensor comes in at around 1990 when it should read between 2100 and 3100. It completely fails the pin-to-ground ohms test. The MAP sensor comes in at 93 ohms and 345 ohms, which is very close to spec (>90 and >350 are good). My spare MAP gave the same readings so I'm not too worried about that. The air temp sensor comes in at 255 when spec is 260+. Also a little weird, but they do pass the ground continuity test.

I'm actually thinking that I missed something important. From what I've read, I think there's a third ground strap (#1 battery to body, #2 bellhousing to frame) The fault tracing manual suggests that (#3) the manifold itself is also grounded to the body. I do kinda remember a third strap from manifold to the body... However, I have Ohm-tested the body to manifold a couple times and come up with "Infinite" so maybe this is not an issue.