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Alternator brush replacement 200 1992

1992 240: With the alt belts squealing due to the alignment I removed the alternator to replace the bushings. Notes, remove battery ground, remove oil pressure connection and two wires to alt, loosen the alt, move the belts over, remove the adj bracket nut and long bolt, oops, found the harness clamp, drop out from bottom after moving the heater hose out of the way. I was a little concerned about the third bushing removal and having to remove the harmonic balancer but found that the bracket has enough angle movement with a little pressure on the bushing.

Now, with 198k on the clock, I had to look at the brushes. It is hard to tell how much time is left since I cannot see how much the brushes push in. This is an 80 amp, marked Volvo and Bosch. The brushes, on the spring side, are held in place by small stamped metal brackets riveted to the regulator. This has me stumped a little. Or does the whole regulator have to be replaced?

I have seen instruction with picts but my search keywords did not locate them. Can someone give me a link?

Thanks in advance.
Tom








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    Brushes on order, alt installed, no squeal 200 1992

    Yup, all the old accessory mtg bushings were distorted, in particular the single engine mounted bushing. I installed three new bushings from a set planned for a 940. I used little dish soap and water to "urge" them on. I still had to use a short nut and bolt to pull in the engine side long bolt mount. Next time, I’ll use some steel wool or a 3M pad to clean up the bushing mounting holes. The only minor battle was reinstalling a washer type spacer that goes between the alt and the front long bolt bushing.

    As for the brushes, I ordered a new set from FCPG along with a case of filters and more bushings. It will be easy removing the regulator with the alt on the car. I expect that the brush replacement would be easy. I think the key is trying not to wick too much solder onto the pig tail.

    I could swear that FCPG had listed these as OEM but now the site says URO and I don’t know it that is a good thing or not.

    Thanks for the help,
    Tom








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    Alternator brush replacement 200 1992

    Pretty sure these brushes are available from FCP Groton.
    --
    84 242Ti IPD bars&springs, 89 745 16v M46 IPD bars, 89 744 16v M46 IPD bars, 90 745 AW70, 91 245SE AW70 IPD bars, 93 245 CLassic M47








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    Alternator brush replacement 200 1992

    When I first did mine on my '91 at 175k miles, I could find no one who listed these brushes as a repair part for my car. Fortunately, the parts counter guy at my favorite parts store is friendly and helpful. He took one of my brushes in the back and came back 5 minutes later with a pair of brushes the same dimension.

    Now these brushes are available as a repair part.

    At about 250k miles, I could not get more than about 13.2 volts out of my alternator, so I replaced the whole voltage regulator.








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    Alternator brush replacement 200 1992

    The leads on the brushes are threaded through that bracket and then soldered into place. If you file those solder joints flat it is easy to drill (1/16")out the solder and thread in new brushes.

    Once the brushes are pushed in the correct amount simply bend the leads over to hold them to that depth and then deposit a bit of solder on the opening to secure them. Then snip off the excess lead. Tip the assembly to get the bruahes more or less in place and then push it into final position before installing the screws.

    Brushes run about $5 while a new Bosch regulator assembly is about $30. It pays to know how to solder...

    Randy







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