Ok, so I need some struts but don't have the tool (5036) to get the top nut off.

People on this board claimed to be able to use an air ratchet to zip the top nut loose. I do have air tools, but will I need something other than the air ratchet to tighten the top nut?

Thanks,
-Greg
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1984 245GL 96,600 original miles

Thanks everybody for all your experience/opinions.

I bought that craftsman wrench last night...prior to getting the other messages. It in-fact does not reach the nut.

It's gonna be a busy weekend:

Struts
Tie rod ends
ball joints
rotors
pads
wheel bearings

Cheers,
Greg
--
1984 245GL 96,600 original miles

I found that you don't need a special tool if you loosen (NOT remove) the nut first.

Before you attach the spring compressors or remove any other bolts, use a 15/16 socket to LOOSEN it. The strut won't turn (didn't with me) as the springs and bolts hold it. (Do NOT remove the nut until you compress the springs.)

If you are using a regular (rather than deep) socket which won't reach the nut, try placing a 1/2" washer or two between the socket and wrench to give the socket a bit more reach. (You can put the washer(s) under the nut on installation to raise it up and be accessible for next strut change.)

On installation, tighten nut last.
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont.

...and have had no problems thus far.
--
'93 244: 'A' cam 4 deg. advanced, 25/22 sways, custom heim endlinks, fully converted to poly bushings, HD springs front, wagon springs rear.

Hi Greg,

An offset wrench works well and is fairly inexpensive. For some reason I cannot get the gallery image to show but the picture is

http://www.brickboard.com/GALLERY/images/5112.jpg
--
Will Dallas, www.willdallas.us, www.willdallas.org, www.willdallas.com, www.dallasprecision.com 86 245 DL 222K miles, 93 940 260K miles, 88 765 GLE 152K miles

You can use a 15/16 inch SAE offset wrench to hold the nut. Then a good crescent wrench on the 10mm flats. you need a little more leverage than a little 10mm wrench can give you. Worked very well, had to grunt a bit to get the drivers side loose. Be sure to get that front end cross member up in the air high enough, you will be banging a rotor off the concrete if you don't.

I looked all over Houston for a metric offset wrench without luck.

Used a BB suggestion from Harbor Freight they sell a inexpensive (cheap) SAE set with that size in it. They also carry a set metric offset wrenches, but the largest size is 22 mm. The other end of that wrench is 1 inch and it fits the oil pan nut, the wrench is kept in Metric Drawer of the tool chest. Have seen posts about grinding off a little for fit, but I did not have to.

This is the Link to the BB suggested set of SAE Wrenches.

Below is the picture that was posted a while back. > .

Good Luck,

Paul

Thanks guys,

So nobody tightened that top nut with an air ratchet?

I'm looking to do this job this weekend and can't wait for shipment from california so I found this one at Sears. It's listed as Deep offset which is different from their 45 degree wrenches.

Will this one work? Pricier, but I need it for saturday.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00944320000P?vName=Tools

Thanks again,
-Greg


--
1984 245GL 96,600 original miles

The Sears deep offset is a 60 degree one. What you probably need is 75 degree one. It's about 2x difference between tan(75) and tan(60). You can get the impact wrench to take the nut off, and then use the crappy Sears wrench to put it back on, if you add a couple (or more) washers under the nut. Just don't wait till Sunday to buy the washers. Guess how I know all this. And btw, I ended up getting my metric offset wrench set on eBay for $35, which worked great. I saw an SAE set there for $8 that seemingly would have worked also.

I use air and an impact socket.

I use it on the nut before doing anything else. I mark the nut and the strut rod so that I can see that it has broken loose. Just a couple of quick hit on the impact trigger is all I have ever needed. Once the unit is out of the car and the springs are compressed it is easy to remove the nut; still using the impact.

Assembly is the opposite.

Randy

So you do tighten the nut back up when everything is back in place? HOw do you control the torque? Did the nut ever come loose on you or have you had any issues with over-tightening?

I just don't want to go out and buy a wrench that I won't use again and I've got the air tools at my disposal.

Cheers,
-Greg

--
1984 245GL 96,600 original miles

Safety Warning!

And before starting it, please do not take this as a flame of put down of anyone. This is only out of concern about a real danger, do not want anyone to get hurt!

There is a high tensile strength spring under load held back by that very nut you are hitting with that 24mm socket and impact wrench. You had better have those springs really well compressed before even thinking about doing this. When hitting the nut with the impact, if it came all the way off accidentally there is very real danger from "accidental release of stored energy". Even with the springs compressed if the nut came loose unexpectedly with the the strut assembly could drop unexpectedly as the nut zips off there.

That is the reason for the Volvo special tool and the instructions calling out the two wrench removal method. I understand the macho impact wrench thing, have one myself now, wished I had it for those spring compressors when I did my struts. Use the impact and safety goggles on the spring compressors and spend $10 on a wrench you can use on the oil pan nut doing your oil changes.

Sorry if anyone takes offense, this suggestion worries me.

Regards,

Paul

Paul,

No offense taken and my asbestos suit is secure in the closet, but a couple of points…

That nut turns with a certain amount of resistance (plastic insert), thus the need for a counterhold wrench. It can also be given about 15 revolutions and still be capable of holding that bearing and spring in place. It would be difficult to zip it off of there if you were the least bit focused on the task. By marking it ( I use a paint marker) I can see when it has moved and all I need is less than one half revolution to “break” it loose.

I probably would not normally suggest the use of the impact solution but the original post asked specifically about the use of the air impact so I addressed that question. I should have spent a moment addressing the safety concerns, and I thank you for taking the time to do that.

Using the impact is not a macho thing on my part. I always have safety foremost in my mind. I always encourage people to avoid having the neighbors read about the work on their Volvos in the local newspapers (grin)

Have a good evening.

… oh, and who is Will Robinson??

Randy

No worries, I don't think anyone would take offense with someone trying to be cautious. I posted a link to a craftsman wrench, I'll probably go buy that one unless someone out there has tried it and it doesn't fit. Harbor freight is much further away than my local sears.

Randy's probably more skilled with an impact than me, so I guess I'll do it the old fashioned way.

thanks for all your suggestions. I'll report back if the craftsman wrench works...unless someone beats me to it.

Best,
-Greg

--
1984 245GL 96,600 original miles

Safety is all good, but may I suggest that there is absolutely no danger in loosening the nut with the strut in place and all 4 wheels still on the ground? Hell, you can even remove the nut at this point. Just put it back in before you jack up that corner.

There are three studs bolted to the mount also. I would not want to trust them with the load of the spring.

Loosen the nut is the goal here. Then move on to the next step.

We all should stress follow the instructions, do not skip a step, safety first. Even more when it comes to loaded springs, jacking and bracing, wearing the right safety equipment, and any other potential dangers.

I want our BBers to out last the cars they work on.

Paul

Search the board... word is that the Craftsman wrench won't work without some modification... and that's if it works at all.

-Ryan
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Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 314k, Dog-mobile
1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars
1991 745 GL 300k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars

I tried Sears first, the issue for me were the words out of stock, special order pay in advance, 12 weeks, and no cancellations.

Harbor Freight is also across from Sears Hardware where I live.

Good Luck,

Paul

At the end (last thing before enjoying that cold Guinness)I hit the nut with a couple of quick trigger pulls similiar to the initial breaking loose.

Is there a torque spec? I personally don't agonize over things like the nuts on the top of the struts; tight is good enough for me.

I have never had one come loose and other than being difficult to remove (the next time?) I don't see any problem with it being too tight (bearing in mind to use some common sense in using the impact to tighten it).

Randy

Basically, "friggen tight" works.

There's no specified torque value in *any* Volvo service manual. Hanyes and Bentley have a value, but it's wrong. They just transposed the value for the three nuts that hold the assembly to the car.

The 740 manual calls for like 100ft-lbs. Same nut/threads as the 240, so that's a good ball park.

-Ryan
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Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 314k, Dog-mobile
1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars
1991 745 GL 300k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars

Is there no Harbor Freight nearby?.... hmmmm.... there's a chance that you could wreck the strut from using an impact wrench to tighten.

-Ryan
--

Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 314k, Dog-mobile
1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars
1991 745 GL 300k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars

I'll second this. The Harbor Freight offset 15/16" works perfectly on the 240 without any mods. It comes in a set for like $7. Cheap, and I only use it for tightening strut nuts. Nothing else. It lives on the shelf with the spring compressor.

-Ryan
--

Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 314k, Dog-mobile
1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars
1991 745 GL 300k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars