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Head Gasket replacement on an 86 245 questions 200 1986

Well Inga for sure has a small Coolant leak on the exhaust manifold side. The leak is actually near cylinder #2 and it runs down the side and leaks out near plug 3.

I have to use half a years vacation before the start of Q2 this year so have lots of time to tear Inga down and get this done right.

Going to have the head checked and milled, the valves ground, and put in all new seals. Going to install new bolts, those are cheap.

Any input on going with the set of gaskets from Tasca, IPD, or FCP?

Any machine shop references in the Houston area?

Any special tools needed?

Any tricks or gotchas to look out for?

Thanks and Regards,

Paul








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Head Gasket replacement on an 86 245 questions 200 1986

I have always used Elring gasket sets from FCP and have been happy with them- no failures.

Some sources indicate that the valves should be replaced not ground. The machine shop I use laughs at those recommendations but I have only ever had the valves ground on one head I have torn down. I just use a powered wire wheel and then lap them in. I have never encountered worn valve guides in a red block either.

Enjoy your vacation.

Randy








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Head Gasket replacement on an 86 245 questions 200 1986

Hi Randy,

I just read something in a green book about not grinding off the Stellite, but that was specific to the turbo.

Wow, you've done a lot of these. I've only replaced one volvo gasket - was beginning to think these cars didn't need that done. Like for you, the Elring set made for a successful job. Didn't even consider using new bolts.

In my case, the B23 head didn't go to a machine shop. It hadn't overheated. I used a cup brush on an electric drill to scrape off most of the carbon, and spent the usual hours carefully cleaning off old gasket.

I'm curious about your lapping technique. Is this the same red plastic stick with suction cups I spun between my palms on motorcycles 40 years ago? With carborundum granules or something like that? Do you have the real deal valve spring squeezer? (I notched a piece of water pipe) Do you wash the head afterward or can you just blow the dust out?
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Always remember that you're unique. Just like everyone else.








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Head Gasket replacement on an 86 245 questions 200 1986

Good morning Art.

Yes, I use a hand lapping tool and lapping compound I got at my auto supply store. Not sure of its composition and it is not at hand to check at the present time.

The suction cups require a little patience as too much much moisture and they slip off, too little and they do not seal. It is a little time consuming but certainly worth the effort.

I have a valve spring compressor. I got it used and do not have the correct end for valve head. I have to use a socket on that end as a spacer to get the "reach" I need.

How do you hold the valve in place while compressing the spring with your method? Do you use the cam to lever against?

I clean the head before (and during) disassembly with carb cleaner. If I have a clean up cut taken (usually) I use more carb cleaner and compressed air to clean it up after getting it back from the machine shop.

Lapping compound is removed from the valves and seats with clean rags. There is no dust involved as the compound is moist. It pays to be anal about that cleaning because of the abrasive nature of the compound.

I would be interested in seeing an image of the tool you fabricated. I think people would be more inclined to rehab their own heads if they had the tool to disassemble the head.

Randy








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Valve spring compressor 200 1986

Somehow, when I began working on the Volvo head, I'd thought I still had a big C-shaped valve compressor tool. I decided I must have hidden it well from myself, or gave it away years ago.

So, I used a large C clamp and a 1/2" galv. pipe coupling, with a nipple inside for reinforcement. The unseen end of the C clamp works against the valve's face.





It wasn't very stable. I remember thinking it would be nice to have an extra pair of hands to take the photo instead of risking the tool slipping from the valve.



I'd not recommend my version of a valve spring compressor, but using a correctly sized soda straw (or in this case heat shrink tubing) worked really well to keep the seals from getting roughed up past the valve's keeper grooves.





--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

A closed mouth gathers no foot.







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