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Hi,
I bought an 740 wich will not start .....
It is a 1986 B230E engine, with automatic gears.
It has an EZK ignition system and K Jet injection
I checked the fuel pomps, and relais. I changed the pomp under the floor for a new one, also the filter.
The injectors do give fuel now.
The cold start injector seems to work too, when i connect it, there is more fuel on the spark plugs.
I checked the coil by connecting a lamp to ground from coil and ground.
when i make contact the lamp burns, when i crank the light goes on and off.
the rpm meter on the dashboard wiggles when starting, zo the hall sensor is ok.
when the car is cold and i crank it, it wants to start once.
it fires a little bit, but wont start.
after that, it doesnt strat at all.
the engine fluds.
any suggestions????
(as you have guessed, i am from holland ... sorry for the poor english!)
Aernout
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Would it be smart to buy a B21E engine so that i can use the Kjet and injectors from it for my car?
I accidently found one on a dutch forum ....
And! i found somebody (very kind man!) who has a compression tester an wants to lend it to me, or even come to my house and do the test!
Aernout
(p.s. i hope tis post comes at the right place in the thread, i dont realy understand where tho reply here ...)
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see if the catalytic converter is clogged,mine wouldn't start because a dimwit ,mechanic after changing the header pipe forgot to put the oxy.sensor back inthe new pipe .
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sorry, but i dont know what a catalytic converter or a oxy. sensor is.
lamda sonde?
Aernout
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Hello Aernout,
Yes, Blindboy refers to Lambda Sonde. Does the B230E have Lambda Sonde?
Do you have technical literature for the K-jet? If not, visit the web site www.k-jet.org. It is an invaluable resource. You can spend many happy hours just reading the pages but you will be most interested in the Documents section. Navigate to the Green Books. Download what you need.
Lucid posted the best suggestion I've seen for your problem. He knows K-jet better than most people. You would do well to follow his suggestions.
Because the car was not used for many years you should set about replacing all the vacuum lines. Rubber does not age gracefully. The K-jet system is very dependent on an intact vacuum system.
(as you have guessed, i am from holland ... sorry for the poor english!)
No need to apologize. Your English is infinitely better than my Dutch. ;-)
--
Mr. Shannon DeWolfe -- I've taken to using mister because my name misleads folks on the WWW. I am a 53 year old fat man. ;-)
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as far as i know the B230E does not have a lambda sonde.
thanks for the link to kjet.org, there's al ot of usefull info there!
i allready started reading ...
i disconnected the CS valve, and it doesnt leak.
the plunger als seems to be working fine ...
today i did not have the time to check timing ...
tomorrow, ill try again!
just test everything to rule out everything!
ill keep you all posted!
Aernout
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If you have fuel, spark, compression. That only leaves 2 things I can think of. Either the plug wires are wrong or it jumped time. You can have all three but if spark is at the wrong time, it will try to start but won't.
--
Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.
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i'm going to check the timing tommorow.
and i 'm allmost sure the plug wires are ok.
when stand in front of the car, looking at the distributor, the left lead is going to no4, the 2nd to no 3, the 3rd to no1, and the one on the right to no3.
(that makes 1342).
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i just bought a new distributor cap and a rotor.
i allready had new cables etc.
I checked all cables and sparkplugs by testing one by one against ground, and they all spark very nice.
When i mounted the new cap and rotor, the engine started! but it ran very poor.
Than 10 sec later it stalled again.
(this is just to keep you guys posted of everything happaning here)
Aernout
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posted by
someone claiming to be fixit2002
on
Fri Mar 6 01:52 CST 2009 [ RELATED]
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Check the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line to see if it's dumping fuel into the intake manifold.
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Hello,
This common fault for LH - Jetronic systems does not correspond to the CIS system.
Goatman
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Hello,
Since you've never seen it start, there is no guarantee that the valve timing is intact. You should do a compression test and check the timing belt alignment.
Good Luck,
Goatman
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I dont know what CIS is .... (im the stupid dutch guy :-) ).
But i disconnected the vacuum hose that comes from below, not the one going in to the cabin, put it in a jar, and cranked the engine.
Nothing came out.
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i have bought it from a man who kept the car for 10 years in the garage.
he started and run it a few times a year.
last time it started, then the rpm went up, and he never got it started again.
this was caused by a defect fuel pomp.
i replaced it, and now the engine does get fuel.
i doubt if it is timing belt or valves.
it ran until the fuel pomp died ...
Aernout
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I've had this happen on occasion with a turbo model. When it would foul or flood, I disconnected the fuel pump relay and cranked the engine with the throttle body open (hold down the accelerator) the car would fire and clean the plugs. I would then plug the relay back in and fire the car again with the accelerator held down and it would start and rev up (I resolved the problem by swapping the engine out). Other than telling you to check and/or replace the obvious ignition components, I can offer no other advice. Good Luck!
Regards,
--
Will Dallas, www.willdallas.us, www.willdallas.org, www.willdallas.com, www.dallasprecision.com 86 245 DL 222K miles, 93 940 260K miles, 88 765 GLE 152K miles, 88 780 246K miles, 93 Buick LaSabre 119,000 miles
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As was suggested a compression test would be in order.
The car may have poor compression from sitting and having the rings get a little sticky. The gasoline that is injected each time you try to start it washes the cylinder walls down further reducing the rings ability to seal and create compression.
Disconnect injector wires
Crank engine over to clear gasoline from cylinder; remove spark plug wires; crank it again.
Squirt two tablespoons of engine oil into spark plug holes; crank engine over to distribute oil. Squirt another tablespoon of oil in and crank over a couple of times.
Reinstall spark plugs (new plugs would be a nice addition).
Reconnect injector wires.
Try to start. If it starts let it run until it reaches normal operating temperature. Sometimes sticking rings will loosen up almost immediately while other times it takes much longer.
Good luck and let us know how it works out.
Randy
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unfortunately i dont have a compression tester.
A friend of mine does, but i have to wait a few weeks until he's here again.
But ill test the compression!
And if its not ok, ill try the oil method.
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You checked for a good spark at each cylinder? Use new NGK copper plugs 6BPES
if I remember right (You can check the search engine- enter "NGK").
You can look in the oil fill hole to verify that the cam is turning while cranking.
I like Randy's idea except 1: I'd put "Mystery Oil" in each cylinder and let it soak a day or more if you're not in a great hurry. That stuff really works to
free stuck rings.
2. You don't need a flood of oil in your exhaust, maybe wrecking the O2 sensor and/or cat converter....so
After the oil soak, get plenty of newspapers and crank the engine to blow
most of that stuff in the paper.
Good luck, Bill
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i've read a dutch forum about a guy who had similar problems with a saab.
the problem in his car was a cold start injector with ambitions.
his manifold was filled with fuel, so the spark plugs fludded.
I removed the ....rubber (see picture, i dont know the name) ...
just take a look! i dont think this is supposed to look like this, am i right?
also, when i crank it, the exaust makes a "poof" sound
(timing check tommorow!)
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another picture, to make it a bit more understandable ...
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All that fuel may have washed the oil from piston rings and cylinder walls.
Result = no compression. Pull all plugs and let it "breathe" for an hour or so.
Then put a small spoonful of oil into each cylinder and turn over by wrench on crank pulley bolt to spread the oil around.
Good luck getting that rubber boot back on.
Make sure CSValve isn't leaking under pressure, and disconnect wires temporarily to help stop flooding.
CIS = Constant Injection System (K-Jet) in some books.
--
Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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I just checked the timing belt by removing the upper cover and look for the marks on the upper wheel (dont know th english word) and the pully's down below.
They line up with the 0 mark and the 2 white dots are also in place.
The rubber boot is back on! no problem :-)
i replaced it without the upper clamb (?) and put it around when the boot was already back on.
now im going to breathe the cilinders, and do the oily project.
Yesterday i checked the auxiliry air valve. it is open, so there should not be a lack of air.
the csv is not leaking, and i tried with the csv disconnected, no change.
Aernout
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I've got an update.
Today, I took out all injectors and stuck them in a jar so that i could see wether they work or not.
Big surprise! they did not work at all.
Earlyer in the project they gave too much fuel (my spark plugs were all wet).
So after a lot of cursing, i went back to the garage and took out the cold start injector and stuck this one in a jar.
I crancked the engine, and there was petrol in the jar!
So i put back the cold start injector and tried to start the car again.
The first time it gave a "poof" out of the exaust, and the second time it ran for a few seconds!
Conclusion, first i had too much fuel out of the injectors, and now i dont get anything at all.
What controls the amount of fuel to go to the injectors and can cause that one time i have too much and the other time too little ????
Aernout
p.s. Have i told you how glad and happy i am that there are people who are willing to help a fellow man?
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second update!
I got curious and started the engine again, but this time i played a little with the throttle (first time i didnt touch it).
And now the car runs!
Problem is that the revs go up to 2500RPM and then drop till the engine wants to stop. When i carefully press the throttle, the engine climbs to 2500 ...
and so on, and so on ...
Is this a problem with the presure that keeps the plunger in place?
I've read something somewhere about a similar problem, but cant find it again
Aernout
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It sounds like to me that the old fuel left in the system has turned to varnish. Clogging injectors, Idle control valve, throttle body etc.
--
Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.
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that souns very much possible!
Is there a method to clean up this mess?
Or do i have to take everything apart?
Aernout
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