OK, so the starter turns over, but I do not hear the buzz indicating that the fuel pump is trying to prime the engine.

I started diagnosing by:

1) replacing two fuses (they were not burnt out, but just in case)

2) checking the in-line fuse on the battery (cleaned a little bit of dust from both contacts)

3) replacing the fuel pump relay in the passenger side kick panel

I then took it to Shop 1, which:

1) replaced the coil and

2) replaced the crank angle sensor which looked like a wiring harness from a 1983 (i.e., broken spaghetti).

Shop 1 told me that the fuel pump was not bad; it pumped when electricity was applied to it. They also said that the car would not start even with a new Engine Control Module, and the problem could very well be something called an ignition amplifier, where they detected a short.

I looked at the old ignition amplifier and noticed a thin white layer between the heat sink and the actual part.

But I also noticed that the casing for one of the two blue wires from the new coil to the ignition amplifier had melted. I replaced the old amplifier with a junker, and the car still won't start.

I now have it in Shop 2, and they haven't been able to diagnose anything in 3 1/2 days.

QUESTIONS:

1) This is a 1989 240, and I notice a distinct lack of availability of complete wire harness kits for this year. Is that because these don't go bad, or they are "universal," or is it easier to splice in new wires if one goes bad?

2) Is it a fool's errand to ask that the entire wiring harness be replaced?

3) Could it be as simple as the grease drying out between the amplifier and the heat sink?

4) Is there something that we're missing here?

The problem was that the auto parts store sold me a windshield wiper relay instead of a fuel pump relay. I suspect it was the cause of the crank sensor failure, the coil, and the burnt wiring.

Where do I go to make a claim? The store, the manufacturer, or Shop 1 which may have put the relay in to begin with?

Use a wire to jump between the left side of fuse 4 and the left side of fuse 6.

With that in place the pumps should run. Can you hear them running with it in place? Then try to start the car. If it starts your fuel injection relay is not being energized.

The problem could be in the 12v supply from the battery to the fuel injection relay. Fuse might be good but you might have a bad (corroded) connection at the battery.

Your car may still have the dreaded pink label 561 ECU that has failed. The ECU is located behind the kick panel on the right side of the passenger's feet- just ahead of the door opening.

Randy

The other Gents have asked the questions I would have. FYI that white between the Amp and the heatsink IS supposed to be there. Thermal grease, it helps transfer the heat out of the Amp and into the Heatsink.

Did this 'no start' just happen all of a sudden or has the car been hard starting for a while?

--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm

It was very sudden. No warning whatsoever. I assumed it was the fuel pump!

With key in the 'ON' position, no sound of Pumps running for a second?

You checked the 25 amp fuse on the Drivers Fender? Is that #2 on your list? How does the contacts look on the fuse holder? They get bad and with a good 25 amp fuse, sometimes you dont get enough current to the Fuel Pump Relay


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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm

Indeed, that was No. 2. The contacts looked kind of dusty, so I brushed them a bit. But I can't imagine that being a catastrophic failure.

I'll see what the shop can do.

My experience. Car was running fine for months. Zero issues. Ran up to the store...no issues. came out, car would not start. Swapped out the spare Fuel pump relay.. nothing, swapped out the Computer ( Yes I have these in the car)
Nothing. On a hunch I went back in the store , bought a cheapy knife and stripped both wire coming from the Fuse holder, twisted them together Vrooom. I wold have thought that Shop #1 or #2 would have found this by now ..
Anyone have a spare computer for you to swap in??
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm

Harness should be fine on the 89. The wire/insulation on the Crank position sensor is known to go bad so replacing it was a good idea anyway.

Do you have spark and fuel?
Jump the left side of fuse 4 and 6 this forces fuel pumps to run continuously. Does it start?
Pull a spark plug leave the wire attached and ground the body of the plug, crank the engine. Does it spark? Is the plug wet?

Dan

The harness should not go bad under normal conditions. 1987 is when Volvo stopped using the self-destrcting harnesses.

Have you checked the fuel pump ground under the back seat? Are you sure you're getting spark? Is the timing correct?

I'm not sure about whether spark or gas is present (that's for Shop 2 to discover).

Where's the fuel pump grounded?

Screwed to the floor from inside the car, under the rear seat. IIRC.