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Front coil spring replacement, and a question about a tool. 140-160 1972

posted by  bmessina on  Mon Apr 13 12:55 CST 2009
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last visit: Fri Oct 19 14:52 CST 2012
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I was trying to replace my front coil springs a weekend or two back, but was thwarted. I took out the shock, disconnected a few things such as the sway bar. Undid the nut for the lower control arm, but the arm wouldn't come down. I gave it some light taps with a hammer, but nothin'. I have 3 greenbooks, but the only one I could find was for '74. It didn't shed much light on the subject. Do I need some kind of spreader? Could someone share a step by step that worked for them?

The tool question: I can't for the life of me remember what this is called, so I'll describe what I'm trying to do. I have a 145. It's always had just the one locking hatch strut thingy. I parted out a 145 last month that had two hydraulic struts, and am trying to get those on. The problem is that one of the nubs on the body that the strut goes on to has snapped off. It's fairly corroded, and it looks like someone went to town on it, trying to get it off, so I can't get a wrench on it.

First I dremeled a slot in it, to get a flathead screwdriver in there, but I ended up twisting the metal. So now I drilled a hole down the middle, intending to get some kind of reverse threaded drillbit in there to back it out... But I don't know what that bit is called. Also, if anyone has any other suggestions to get it out, that would be appreciated.

Thanks!

-Ben







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    Front coil spring replacement, and a question about a tool. 140-160 1972

    uid 5322's pic
    posted by  alschnertz on  Tue Apr 14 01:01 CST 2009
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    last visit: Fri Oct 24 10:32 CST 2014
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    I have heated the steering knuckle on occasion which has helped free things up.
    I've never been very successful with a pickle fork - don't know why, it just never worked for me. Only use one if you're changing the ball joint because it will tear the hell out of the boot.

    Like George said, be real careful, that spring is loaded with potential energy!

    As to the hatch strut. I would guess that the term you are looking for regarding the tool name is "screw extractor" also known as an "e-z out".
    I also got rid of the locking hatch strut on my '70. I then replaced both sides with struts from a 245. You will find that if you simply add another "single lift" style (ie. '68 - '72) strut to the locking side, the hatch will be very hard to close. That make sense?
    --
    '60 PV544, '68 220, '70 145, '86 745T








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      Front coil spring replacement, and a question about a tool. 140-160 1972

      posted by  bmessina on  Tue Apr 14 05:38 CST 2009
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      last visit: Fri Oct 19 14:52 CST 2012
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      E-z out! That's what it was. Thanks for that.

      The '71 I pulled these struts from had perfect hatch operation, opened and closed with ease. Stayed open as well. I left the locking strut on that '71 when it was scrapped... Oh well. I've gotta make this one work.







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    Front coil spring replacement, and a question about a tool. 140-160 1972

    posted by  walrus3 on  Mon Apr 13 14:14 CST 2009
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    last visit: Mon Dec 2 14:20 CST 2013
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    If you don't look out you are REALLY GOING TO HURT YOURSELF!!
    There is a lot of energy stored in that spring and the ball joint is all that
    keeps it there!
    Be SURE and brace UNDER the A-frame before you take the nut off the ball joint pin.
    It is a good idea to brace it with a block in a fairly low position (lower than it would be with the wheel
    on the car so that once you get it loose, you can jack the car up to release the spring gradually.
    If you don't care about damaging the lower ball joint you can use the "Pickle Fork" type joint separator.
    I made some screw-jack devices that fit between the two ball joints and jack them apart. Works great.
    E-mail me offline if interested.
    --
    George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!








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      Front coil spring replacement, and a question about a tool. 140-160 1972

      uid 779's pic
      posted by  matt b on  Tue Apr 14 01:01 CST 2009
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      last visit: Tue Oct 14 16:33 CST 2014
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      If you don't look out you are REALLY GOING TO HURT YOURSELF!!

      A couple things I do...

      1) Leave the shock absorber in there, bolted in at the top. That'll keep the spring from flying too far. I suppose there's risk of damaging the shock, but that's a hell of a lot cheaper and easier to replace than yourself.

      2) Leave that ball joint nut threaded atop the ball joint... just loosen it so you can pop the taper. If the bolt doesn't turn easily, you'll probably have problems taking it off the rest of the way, as the whole joint will spin. So make sure that nut turns easily on it's threads.

      3) Use a pickle fork tool to pop the ball joint taper. Yea.. you'll probably damage the rubber boot. But using the pickle fork keeps your hands farther away from all that stored energy in the spring.

      Be safe and think about exactly what's going on before you get your hands anywhere near things.




      --
      -Matt I ♥ my ♂








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        Front coil spring replacement, and a question about a tool. 140-160 1972

        posted by  bmessina on  Tue Apr 14 05:42 CST 2009
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        last visit: Fri Oct 19 14:52 CST 2012
        [RELATED]

        Ok... I've been appropriately admonished on the stored energy front. I'm going to buy a second jack to get under the arm before I go any further.

        Thanks for the help! Since I'm holding off already, I think I might try this tool that George mentioned.







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