I just did a bunch of things, pretty much preventative/to help pass smog in CA. New plugs and wires, removed and cleaned the exhaust manifold, IAC and throttle body, plus new flame trap, hose and housing. Yesterday I undid the intake manifold, replaced the heater hoses (loosing a half gallon of coolant on the garage floor while trying to get the lower hose off), replaced both the coolant temp sensor, and the temp gauge sensor, and installed a new intake gasket.

In putting her back together I managed to strip the rear most stud. It was getting late, so I just buttoned her all up minus the nut on that last stud. Today I drove her a few blocks to the coffee shop and back and noticed the temp gauge reading higher than normal (temp comp board has been removed/overridden). Checked fault codes and I get a 2-2-4 and a 2-3-2, which I believe is a faulty coolant temp sensor, and a faulty IAC.

A few questions, I have extra exhaust manifold studs that didn't need to be replaced, are they the same as the intake manifold? What is the trick to removing the stud without breaking it? Could the intake manifold leak be leading to the IAC fault reading, or did I somehow kill the IAC with cleaner when I cleaned it? I suppose I should check the wiring next, both to the IAC and the coolant temp sensor. I noticed a weird, hard crimp or something near the plug to the CTS, seemed like it could put stress on the wiring. Is there a way to remove the plug and test just the wiring, and just the sensor?

This, combined with my recent accident which is also on my list to fix (if Dan Stern ever completes my order so I can install my e-codes) and I am feeling pretty unlucky.

Thanks for listening,
Ryan

Ryan,

Although this is NOT SOP, did you by chance check the flange of the intake for flatness where it mates to the head? I had an intake gasket leak a while back and found it to be warped to the point that the gasket would not seal. You will need a straight edge and a feeler gauge. Note that the intake manny on our car was quite heavily modded.

If you pull it back off, just check it to be on the safe side.

jorrell
--
92 245 250K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently taking names and kicking reputations!

Ryan,

I can't answer most of that, but I believe code 232 list multiple causes including running too rich or lean. It's in the FAQs if you don't have it elsewhere. One cause for setting that code IIRC is air entering that does not go through the AMM. So, if your stripped stud is causing an intake leak, that could be the reason for the code.

If you have enough good thread left, you can pull the stud by double nutting and turning one against the other to pull it out. You probably can't do that without taking the manifold off. If double nutting fails, there are always vice grips and special tools for pulling them.

Charley

Ok, yeah, I think I misread my fault code. It's not the IAC, it's rich/lean fuel mixture compensation (which makes sense because of the air leak).

I removed both battery cables and got the 2-3-2 code to clear. I can't seem to get rid of the 2-2-4 (faulty coolant temp sensor). I have tried resetting codes at the diagnostic unit, and leaving the battery disconnected for some time. Is this a code that is logged as soon as the ignition switch is engaged? I want to clear it so I can see if it is an intermittent fault or not.

Also, even just idling in my driveway the temp gauge reads higher than before I replaced the temp gauge sender, about 50-75% between the "average" dot and red line. Could this just be the more accurate reading from a new sensor, or could the Coolant Temp Sensor fault be causing the engine to run hotter than normal? (It is about 85 degrees in Los Angeles today).

As far as the stripped stud, I would double nut it off, but it is stripped at the top so nuts just spin on top of the stud without going on....

Thanks

Ryan

UPDATE: I would have just edited my previous post but I guess there is a time limit or something....

Well I drove to Home Depot and bought a new nut for the intake stud. I managed to get it on when I got home! My guess is it was a combination of bad threads on the nut and the stud, but with a new nut it was enough to it started. One problem solved.

On the way to Home Depot I watched the temp gauge. As I left home and drove a few blocks it went from cool all the way just up to the red and then it backed down to about 2/3 between average and the red line. I'm guessing that this is just a new sensor causing my temp gauge to behave the way I wanted it do when I did the temp comp board override. The engine doesn't feel like it's getting too hot. Two problems solved.

Now I'm left wondering what the deal is with the brand new Bosch OEM Coolant Temp Sensor that I installed. No matter how long I disconnect the battery for, I still get a 2-2-4 error. My guess is the wiring, or maybe I dropped it before installing it and totally forgot. I don't need to reset the ECU or something when installing a new sensor, do I?

If anyone is still reading this far, I commend you.

Ryan

Ryan,

The temp gauge ramping up to the red and then dropping back to normal sounds like either a sticking t-stat or air in the cooling system.

I suspect that air in the system could also set the 224 code.

In my experience, the other code may be set immediately after starting, or may take 150 miles. The problem is that there are too many causes that can set that one.

Charley