If you can't tell the colors of the wires any more, then you really need an ohmmeter to check the continuity of the wires from one end to the other to tell which is which. While the liquid insulator stuff will do the trick to keep the wires from shorting, it isn't doing you any favors to make it easy to trace which wire is which when things go bad...

Not sure how the gray connector is oriented in your car, but in my car the connector was oriented more or less vertically. The wires that came out of the top of the connector went through the firewall and inside the car, and those which came from the bottom of the connector went to the various sending units and accessories around the engine. If you look at the gray connector, you should be able to see which way your wires go. The wires usually fail on the engine side of the connector, which means that wires on the firewall side should be intact and you should be able to tell which color each wire is. And once you figure that out, you should be able to look at the engine side of the connector to figure out which wire is which.

In my case, the gray connector itself had also deteriorated and crumbled to the point that it was no longer usable. I pulled the individual conductors out of the gray plug, and just spliced new wires onto the ends of the conductors and plugged them all in without the gray connector to hold them all together. Doesn't look as neat as a factory install, but it gets the job done.

billy242
1980 242DL with lots of GT and IPD stuff