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Is the 1974 B20 block to be avoided? 200 1975

Hi all,

my 1975 B20F engine now has zero compression on cylinder #2 from broken piston-rings.

Of that, I am certain.

I am taking for granted that the cylinder-wall must have been deeply scratched and gouged, by now.

I have not even removed the cylinder-head to check the condition of the dead cylinder as I am too much in a hurry to get the car running again.

Rather than consider fixing and investing in my 1975 B20F, I am starting to look for a good replacement block.

I have located a 1974 Volvo 142 with a B20F with 95,000 miles.

I have read here and there that the 1974 B20 block-casting is 'soft' and porous.

What is the consensus of the B20 Brickboard-experts on the subject?

Should I or not give that 1974 B20 block any consideration as a replacement block?

Thanks in advance for all sensible advice.








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Is the 1974 B20 block to be avoided? 200 1975

An opinion:
I would guess that 1974 and 75 blocks are not much different.
Before you scrap the 75 you should LOOK at the cylinders and maybe even measure them.
ZERO compression is mighty low even for broken piston rings. I would have expected at least 40 or 50 psi.
Are you sure you don't have a valve open?
--
George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!








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Is the 1974 B20 block to be avoided? 200 1975

Remove you valve cover and make sure all the valves go up and down! broke rings don't add up to no compression







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