So, I'm sitting here waiting on new calipers for the back, after a simple pad change got worse and am thinking of later toady when I need to bleed the brakes. I only have 1 set of jack stands, so am I gonna be bleeding, replace wheel, jacking, removing wheel, bleeding,etc., etc., all afternoon? Something tells me I am right!

Maybe a stupid question, but is there a better way?????

i've run into another issue...the new caliper has an incorrect thread where the break line attaches. Luckily, it's the one that wasn't seized and i'm able to use the old caliper for now...i hate the idea of having one new and one old, but for the time being it'll work. Well as long as I can open the bleeder, it's being soaked as i write this.

wish me luck,

Matt

One other thought in addition to the rest of the valuable input here is keep the back end of the car slightly elevated while you are doing your brake work. Good luck!

What LUCID said... with some of my input

First, Make sure you can loosen the Bleeders on the brand new calipers. Then take them all the way out and put Anti Sieze grease on them..

Take out the Fuse, #8 I think, for the brake lights and stuff a piece of wood between the seat and the brake pedal. That closes the Master so fluid wont keep leaking out. If you do this, you shouldn't have to bleed the Fronts at all.

Get the Lines threaded on the new calipers a little before fastening them to the car. it just helps you not cross thread the lines.
You will want to pull the Brake line off the very last mount where it clips to the axle.
Bleeding: I have great luck with putting some fluid in the bottom of a bottle then run a tube from the bleeder to the bottom of the bottle. The Brake fluid in the bottle acts as a Check valve. Loosen teh Bleeder, get in the car, pump teh pedal about 7 times and come out and tighten the Bleeder. CHECK THE RESERVOIR then do the same procedure to the other side.

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'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm

If it's not too late, you can keep the bleeding to a minimum, by keeping fluid in the lines while the calipers are disconnected.
Here's my sermon on the subject...
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You can prevent Master Cylinder Brake Fluid Loss from any/all open brake line(s) by blocking the brake pedal depressed before you start. It only takes an inch or two on the pre-ABS 240s. The ABS 240s need more pedal travel, like the 799/900 cars (in which case the bleeder needs to be open while pedal is being depressed).

The 700/900 Green Book shows the 700/900 pedal fully depressed by a special tool (easy to replicate with a 2x4, etc.). The book also says to open a bleeder first, and use a tube and container to catch the fluid expelled when the pedal is being depressed.

>>Disconnect the battery to keep brake lights off while the pedal prop is in place.<<

I've been using this on '80s 240s for about 15 years now—since I learned it from an independent Volvo specialist. I made a wooden prop that hooks to the bottom edge of the pedal and bears against the 240 seat adjuster bar. It's handy for checking brake lights too.
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Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

Make sure you have a good 11mm flare nut wrench and get a one man bleeder kit from somewhere like Princess Auto (I think they are about $5 there). Using this method you can do it yourself.

Good luck!