Hey all,

***see pics here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/43584506@N08/

My AMP light wasn't going out, so I had the generator checked, then rebuilt (it was bad). After installing, and the car running brilliantly (AMP light off) the battery was soon dead. I figure that since I had been always taking off the negative lead from the battery before, this short had always been there...but, then again, it hadn't melted anything before.

So I thought, hmmm, where's the short? Didn't find it by checking at the fuses, but what I did find is the little dohickey off of the D+ wire of the voltage regulator was really hot, and dripping.

HELP?!
What is this part?
Is this part replaceable?
Did I put the generator back on wrong?
Why won't the engine start now, even when I jump it?

One other important bit of info:
I had to install a remote starter switch since the ignition switch was shorting out the power to the points, etc. whenever the key was in the "start" position. Could my switch be totally bunk by now? Who sources the switch+key assembly?

for all the trouble a generator is I will suggest you just switch to an alternator. I ran gens in my 120 for a couple of years and finally gave up installed an ac delco alt (stay away from the old bosch they're as bad as gens) and I have not messed with the charging system since.
re your problem right now yes both those capacitor looking things are aftermarket "somethings" and not necessary, . Too bad you didn't research the alt conversion here first as IMHO the money spent on a a gen rebuild is often wasted.
Of course if you want an all original car then the gen is the way to go, matches the rust :)
--
Patrick, '68 220, '92 Eurovan (work truck) '53 PD4104 (conversion).

I've got a '65, and mine is modified, so I may not be correct here, but the little round can looks like a noise reduction capacitor. Is it possible that the red wires should be attached to terminal 61, and a third wire should go to the capacitor, then the black wire goes to ground?

I'm sure Ron Kwas will know for sure, he seems to know these electrical systems inside out.

My '65 wiring diagram shows the 2 red wires directly on the voltage regulator (of course, it doesn't list which terminals); from there one goes to the 25A fuse via the AMP light, and the other goes to the generator (again, doesn't show which terminal...I'm guessing it's the 12V output?).

I'd guess if the little melted bit is a capacitor, it was added to reduce generator noise heard through the radio. If it is, then the generator output across the thing would melt it in short order as it would essentially cook inside. It's not meant to pass current, just to smooth the voltage changes caused by varying loads on the generator so they don't make noises over the speakers.

I apologize if my description isn't clear. I'm in desperate need of coffee and I've been on the road since Sunday so I'm tired, jet lagged, can't sleep and no coffee. And I could use a cup of coffee. So I'm going to find coffee now.

Ben

I'm pretty certain those aren't of Bosch/Volvo OEM origin, as far as I can tell Baron's ID'ing of them as noise filters is probably accurate. Generators tend to put out more electrical noise than alternators.

As for the main issue, I'd guess that someone kept bumping up the regulator voltage (well, I guess it's more of an amperage regulator on a generator?) in an attempt to keep the old worn generator charging. And once the rebuilt generator went in it proceeded to let it overcharge the system. Which will make a battery go bad in fairly short order.

It's been a long time since I had to mess with a generator equipped car, but as I recall the shade tree method of setting it about right was to start the car up, rev the motor up some (say 2000 rpm, since generators don't really do much at low engine speeds), then turn on all the electrical gadgets (wipers, fan, headlights on high beam, mainly), and then bend the tab in the regulator so the headlights perk up some.
--
'63 PV544 rat rod, '93 Classic #1141 245 (now w/16V turbo)

Thanks guys. I'll wait for Ron's expert opinion as well. So, what I'm hearing is that the thing is unnecessary, since as with every Volvo I've ever bought (I think I'm at #6 now) this one doesn't have a radio.

I forgot to add that I did do some rough testing to see if it was overcharging, but my crappy little voltmeter wasn't really clear. I will have to source a digital one from a friend...which leads me to ask, in your opinion, from your experiences:

How do I check the voltage regulator?

Thanks all!

The noise suppression capacitor, which you don't need without a radio, is normally fitted on top of the generator. I'd pull those 2 odd looking items and rewire it as Volvo intended. The regulator is a common replacement one and should work OK if the wires are on the right terminals. I think, not positive though, that they are laid out the same as the Bosch unit.

That rust looks nasty.................