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One side is OK.
Go with Moog/TRW parts.
A dab of White-Out on the front of each brake dust shield (in front of the tie-rod). Measure between with a tape, and write it down. This will help you retain the alignment.
Loosen the clamp for the steering rack boot.
Loosen the nut on the tie rod that's locked up against the tie-rod end.
Loosen the 19mm nut on the tie-rod end.
I used the smaller 2-jaw Craftsman gear puller (grease the threads, grease the tip) to pop the tie rod end out of the steering arm on the strut tube. A pickle fork might do. Simply banging away with a big hammer can bend the threaded part of the tie rod end, then you'll never get it out.
Once removed, just unscrew the old tie rod end from the tie rod. Thread the new one on. Put it in the steering arm on the strut. Put the jack under the new tie-rod end and apply some pressure. Put the nut on top of the new tie rod end and torque to spec (it's around 45ft-lbs, IIRC). If the tie rod spins while tightening the nut, just apply a bit more force with the floor jack.
Now just adjust the tie-rod to dial back in the measurement you took earlier. Once there, tighten the locking nut. Replace the clamp on the steering rack boot.
That's all there is to it!
-Ryan
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Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 324k, Dog-mobile, E-codes
1990 245 DL 137k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars, GT Braces, Dracos
1990 744GLE 189K 16-valve project
1991 745 GL 304k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars
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