Volvo RWD 200 Forum

INDEX FOR 1/2026(CURRENT) INDEX FOR 3/2016 200 INDEX

[<<]  [>>]


 VIEW    REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Yes, disconnecting the tail lights should equalize the current at zero 200

It is not the reed switch fused shut like John suspects, or it would light the warning light as soon as you started the motor, regardless of the position of your light switch.

Here's what happens:

Someone works on those awful sedan taillight assemblies trying to get all the lights to work and inadvertently jams the dual filament bulb in the wrong direction, shorts out the tail light circuit (momentarily grounds it), or tries to put the black socket where the white one goes. The 21W brake light (or the short circuit) overheats the sensing coils in the bulb failure relay, causing the isolated windings to no longer be isolated -- shorted together.

Check both fuse 15 and 16, and be sure never to put anything higher rated than the 8A (white) fuses that belong in there. If you can get both sides of your parking lights to come on with either of those fuses removed, you need to test your BFWS.

Test the BWFS in the tail light position by equalizing the current right at the sensor, as shown below. If the light is still on, you need a new one.




--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

"If life were fair, Elvis would be alive and all the impersonators would be dead." (Johnny Carson)






THREADED THREADED EXPANDED FLAT PRINT ALL
MESSAGES IN THIS THREAD

New Bulb Failure Light [200]
posted by  hawkeye  on Sun Sep 19 14:48 CST 2010 >


<< < > >>



©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.