I've done this before. One time drove my 140 about a block to the gas station with no grill and no radiator and had them use their air wrench. No longer have that option. I've also just read the "stuff-the-rope-into-the cylinder-through-the-plug-hole" method. That scares me.

My own pancake compressor probably doesn't have the oomph to do this. Is there some other way, using a big breaker bar, without having to pull the starter and jam the flywheel? I have a double pulley, so I imagine I can devise some sort of grooved holder and combine it with a pie clamp to keep things from rotating. Or maybe there's a way to do it by jogging the engine with a stout socket in place and the breaker bar against the floor ...or chained to it. But then I can't even remember if it's a RH or LH thread...or what the tightening torque might be if i do get it off. And that latter sound like a disaster looking for a place to happen.

Just getting tired of the oil all over the engine and want to replace the seal. Anyone invented this wheel before? Also, what else should I look for while I'm in there?

You lost me somewheres..
Small compressors aren't really a problem if the pressure and gun are good.
I've parted and completely disassembled several 140's with an IR 2131 & a 3/4 HP baby Emglo.
By the time you get the bolt in the baggie the compressor is back up.
--
71-145-S

Redwood,

I tried to email you but it was bounced back. Can you email me --

barneyfou@gmail.com

Regarding quarter panel for 122 at the Oakland PnP.

Thanks

That's encouraging. Of course that's the first thing I'll try. Just looking for a contingency in case it doesn't work. Don't think that nut's been off for 20 years. Also, aren't there clearance problems, even with the radiator out?

The breaker bar and pipe method is my choice. Somebody must be able to tell me if its a RH or LH nut. The crankshaft turns clockwise as viewed from the front of the car, so it seem that a LH-threaded nut would tend to tighten itself. So my guess would the bar/extension would have to point toward about 5 o'clock and rest on the floor on the driver's side of the car.

Lots of assumptions here, from someone who has tightened about a million fasteners and still has to, when inverted, do a twisting motion with his hand to figure out which way something should turn. I'd sure feel more confident if someone could confirm LH or RH thread o that nut.

Hello,

The crankshaft bolt is RH thread.

Are you going to use the starter to loosen the bolt?
--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502

I was hoping to simply jog the starter to loosen the bolt. Problem?

Just put a breaker bar (and maybe an extension on the handle) and socket on the crank pulley nut, brace it against the ground (after figuring which way it's going to want to turn when you bump the starter). A couple of burps, maybe only one and the nut is broken loose.

I'm also a new convert to the rope trick.
I was also intimidated by it the first time.

I'm now a beliver. I'd prefer it over an impact wrench in a heartbeat.

I don't know about an 1800's engine, but my B230 was just fine after doing the rope trick. Scared the hell out of me that first time, but it worked really well. Just make sure it's nylon rope, not cotton, so that no cotton lint gets in there.

I've put 12k on the engine since the rope trick, and all is fine (better than fine!).

Ari