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No intended redundancies, but I haven't been able to locate a place to buy new transmission cooling lines anywhere in catalogs or online. I have already installed the much talked about rubber hose patch but unfortunately the rest of the lines look haggard at best, including the fittings. I have looked around and cannot find a place to buy new ones (fcp groton and Ipd), are they available or do I need to fabricate them?
Thanks again
Andrew
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Thanks for all the advice, I will get started after the holidays
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Yes you need to fabricate them. You can buy the tubing and a bender, but you can bend it quite well if you are careful. You will need a double flaring tool and cut one end off a 72" line just a 1/4 inch back from one of the flares. Use your old fittings, clean them up and make sure they glide on the new tubing well,make sure they are facing the right way and double flare the end you cut off. Then bend line to fit. Job done!
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I have fabricated four or five sets of transmission cooling lines from 5/16" stock from my local full service auto supply store.
I have never done a double flair on any of the tubes I have worked with and have never had one leak with just a simple flair. Perhaps I have just been lucky?
Randy
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...make sure they are facing the right way...
I recognize that as "experience."
To expand on the process a bit, maybe to help decide make or buy, the Harbor Freight, or even the Sears flaring tool isn't gonna work here. The Bundyweld tubing isn't as easy to flare as copper; you'll need a high quality flaring tool that can maintain its grip on the 5/16 plated steel.
Even waiting for a auction bargain, the tools will be a bit more than the lines at the dealership, but the tubing is cheap (McMaster-Carr). For me, the choice was easy having 8 cars to maintain, and being willing to pay for a new skill.
Try these p/n at Tasca when their site comes back up:
3547995, 3547996
Call to verify the numbers if you buy; I'm a 240 guy just using VADIS to get the 900 #s.
This is definitely overkill, in retrospect, but I was trying to build some sort of a template to make #2 copy easier to make next time. Also, I started this work making fuel lines, and found accuracy was a plus. There's a lot of wiggle room with the cooler lines because they are unsupported through most of their bends.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
Much later, when I was discussing cosmological problems
with Einstein, he remarked that the introduction
of the cosmological term was the biggest blunder he ever
made in his life." -George Gamow
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Hi, Wow, It takes me 30 min. to do both lines and they don't look that good, but they get the job done. I found a good flairing tool at NAPA. I bend them by hand, so each one is different, but I still manage to keep them side by side so the clips will work. I do this for a living not for art. Pauli
My floor is not as clean as well.
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That is definately more stout than mine. You did a wonderful job on the new line. I love working on the older cars from the late 30's to 53,4 or so. I just purchased a 91, 780 that I think I might have fun working on. I have a complete driveline from a 98,S90 I think I will install. Keep up the great work on all those images to show what your working on.
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I believe I now have an answer to the flaring on brake lines (what it's called i.e. bubble flare). I have a flexible brake line I replaced I can't get to stop leaking at the connection and was going to re-flare the end. I have also wondered if the new flexible brake line connection was bad. Those flares on brake lines are bubble flares Art (so I know what kind of tool to ask for)?
--
Mine: 3-940s running, 3-740 and 1-940 parts cars, and 3 1959 John Deere 630 tractors, dtr1:3-940s, dtr2:2-740s
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Art,
The finished work is beautiful and the diagram on paper is impressive but what I love the most is the really nice garage FLOOR! I'm sure you did it yourself and I have to say that it gives me a great idea for mine. The humor-added in your replies are great but the finish for the ground in the photo really floors me. I may very well try attempt it myself, too, although I have always been a tile and error type guy. (please don't call me on the carpet about this).
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You can always count on Art to have some concrete answers.
On a more serious side, what's the deal with the coolant lines? Are you guys having trouble with them rusting out or something? If that's the problem, why not see if you can just source some from a southwest bone yard? Even down here in GA I don't see a big issue with them.
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I think that the biggest problem is chafing from the clamp that holds them in place.
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It starts at the clamp or even the clips -- anywhere that heavy-duty plating gets damaged. But eventually, in salt land, the sacrificial plating is gone all over the lines, if there's no good oil leak to protect them, and a compression union patch that may have done well at the clamp, is no longer the cure.
I thought it was a humorous concept, getting someone to ship those lines. Member vvpete said they come from Volvo on a big piece of cardboard. I wonder what that looks like, given they are bent in more than one plane. Maybe they leave those last directional adjustments to the installer?
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
Those who race through life finish first. (Darrel Hunsbedt)
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Dear Art,
Hope you're well. I checked VADIS and could only find transmission cooler lines - from the tranny forward - for use with an auxiliary ATF (automatic transmission fluid) cooler. I did not see a diagram which showed transmission fluid lines, intended to replace the factory-original units, which run directly from the transmission to the in-radiator, ATF cooler.
A box large enough to hold these tubes could be shipped: UPS or FedExGround would charge for the size (volume), not the weight. If the box were deemed over-size and so rejected by UPS or FedExGround, Greyhound will accept boxes large enough to hold a Volvo dashboard. Such a box should be adequate for these tubes.
To prevent the box from being crushed, these tubes would have to be "floated" on tight-packed styrofoam peanuts. "Tight-packed", means that after a base layer of peanuts has been poured into the box, the tubes can be put in. Then, more styrofoam peanuts have to be put in, and the box shaken to settle everything. Further peanuts must be added, and the box shaken briskly again, to settle everything. When the level of the "settled" styrofoam is an inch above the box flaps' fold-line, the box should be closed.
This methods compresses the styrofoam peanuts, locking the tubes into place. If items cannot move within a box, they are less likely to be damaged. This method also fills the box will enough material, to keep the box from being crushed, by the bumps and tumbles of shipping.
Few of those, responsible for shipping, understand physics. That is why one finds parts put in the bottom of a box, with all of the packing material on top of the parts. If shippers educated their packers about physics, the parts would be surrounded by packing material.
Hope this helps.
Yours faithfully,
Spook
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Interesting comments on shipping. Too many years ago I had the delightful opportunity to observe the packing techniques used to protect some delicate test equipment I would follow around the country. Those items that did not have custom trunks made, got set in a fast-curing 2-part foam (between poly film liners) inside of oversized 3-ply cardboard boxes.
When one of our favorite aftermarket suppliers grabbed the raging internet business by the horns, their shipping lacked a certain respect for Newtonian physics. Exhaust kits and intake manifold gaskets tossed in a box with peanuts. It took a long time for the apple to fall (or maybe way too many conks on the head in the form of damage returns) but more effective economic laws turned the tide, and now their packages arrive packed very well. They must know it too, because each pick list includes an invitation to compliment the packer with an email.
On the VADIS page I had open, the 940 application was not clear enough to me to order those part numbers without expert help. I could very well have been looking at a special line for the towing option. I am out of my area when it comes to 940's.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
Birthdays are good for you. The more you have, the longer you live.
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