I picked up a new rear main seal last night. I thought there was a paper gasket to go between the seal carrier and the block. The volvo parts guy told me it was a chemical gasket. Huh? Both of us forgot to get the gasket material, and they're closed till monday.

Is the dealer item the same thing as Permatex Make a Gasket? http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_makers/auto_permatex_ultra_black_maximum_oil_resistance_rtv_silicone_gasket_maker.htm

Thanks
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1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond

No, originally it was a cellulose fiber gasket. I probably have one around here somewhere that I can scan and send you for a pattern.

Having owned several not so popular foreign cars I have hand cut lots of gaskets. Manicure sissors work well enough for a small radius or round holes.

Let me know if you want me to look for it.

jrstarkieatroadrunnerdotcom

That would be excellent, if you can find one easily. Otherwise I'll probably be able to trace it, if I need it.

I haven't seen gasket material floating around parts stores for a while.

Thanks!
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1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond

http://cleanflametrap.com/RMS.html

‘‘I chose to take the housing off (I had a gasket in hand)’’ -- Art Benstein


Did you take the carrier off Will?

I did not take it off. I think the replacement can be done with it in place...?

I might take up Mr? Starkie on the offer.

I'll pull off the flywheel and see how it looks before I do anything else.

Thanks
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1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond

If you haven't taken it off I would not.

It is simple to pry out the seal. While it is not as easy to clean the crank surface with the carrier in place overall I prefer not pulling the carrier.

A scratch pad and some solvent on the end of a paint stick will make short work of the crank clean up. Then simply grease up the crank and the seal and tap in the new seal.

I will have a look for the gasket, but my choice would be to not remove the carrier.

Randy

Ok. I won't pull the carrier unless absolutely necessary (read disaster aversion).

Will scotch brite pads work all right, or are they too coarse?

EDIT:I think I'll stick with 0000 steel wool, partly based on this http://www.steelwool.biz/Steel_Wool_Stuff_to_know2.htm

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1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond

They are probably fine, I just use a piece of one of the pads I get at the local auto paint supply store. Just wipe the crank down to remove any residual abrasive tidbits before installing.

Safe to assume you have read this in the FAQ's?
http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineSealsBeltsVent.htm#LeakingRearSealandReplacementTips

I install my seals with a piece of PVC. The side against the seal is plane so it sits flush all the way around. I had to cut a section out of it and compress it to the correct diameter. I find the rear main seals to be the most difficult to install, I think it is because as the seal diameter increases it becomes more difficult to get it started into place. It is real easy to get one started in crooked. Go slow and good luck.

Randy

Ah! It's never safe to assume, but yes I had read it. I re-read it just now. The new seal I bought does have the plastic ring on the inside of the seal. I'm assuming this holds the seal from contracting during storage, and will make installation easier.

According to the FAQ
"
[Editor] Volvo grey Viton seal p/n 6842160 is well worth the slight extra cost. When you get the seal, it comes on a round plastic carrier. Cut off the inner protrusion (the lip pointing toward the center of the circle) with a coping saw and an X-Acto knife, then use the carrier as the seal lip seating tool. It will fit perfectly over the 92mm crankshaft. Insert this after the seal is installed to make sure the lips are not curled under, since the Viton seal is much tighter than the silicone seal. Works like a champ.
"

That sounds like I could slide the modified plastic carrier, along with the seal, along the crankshaft to install it. Is that right?
I get the impression that the trimmed plastic carrier will fit over the crankshaft.
Perhaps it will be a lot understand when I have it in hand. It usually is.

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1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond

Sorry, I can not speak to the use/installation of the Viton seal as I have never used one.

Randy

I got the old seal out, the crank and seal mount cleaned, and the new seal in.

Trimming the plastic seal carrier was a beautiful idea. I trimmed it with nippers, then smoothed it with a new utility knife blade. I wore gloves for that part.

I used an air hammer to remove the bolts and I'll put them back in with my torque wrench. The spec I found says 50 ft-lbs.

The toughest part was removing the old seal. I would up using a less than ideal tool, but it didn't mar anything.

The new seal is well oiled on all sides.

I'm very glad I did this - when I removed the flex plate, I could see that the seal was leaking! There was some kludge on the seal mount, which I cleaned off with a dental pick and steel wool.

The 0000 steel wool was very slow, but had a nice finish. I found some, which I think was more like 0 or 00, and it worked much better.

All this will go into the write-up, as well as big thanks to Randy and Art.

Happy Wrenching!
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1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond