Thanks for the help with posting pictures. I'm starting a B23Ft rebuild. The plan is to put the engine in my 242. I just started so it'll be a while, but I thought I'd post pictures of the progress and the problems I encounter. First problem is getting the crank sprocket off without damaging anything. Also, the distributor is being really stubborn. The rest of the stuff came off easily. Any ideas would be appreciated. Here are a few pictures of the project so far.











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Thanks for all the help. DougC ::::: 1981 242, IPD bars and Turbo wheels, M46:::::::B23FT, rebuild has finally started, will go in 242:::::::1997 S90

A lot of people profess admiration for the B23FT, but to me the paper thin block walls and the casual bore are worries. Are you sleeving the cylinders? I had a spiffy B21FT in tip top shape, so that one is fine for my 242GT which needs only the wiring and interior put back together now to be complete (thanks Ron!).

Thanks for the info. I meant to post this in the 200 forum. I'm going to repost over there. I don't know much about this really. The only engines I've rebuilt were VW air cooled a long long time ago. I'm careful and systematic though which will help. I can definitely use some advice. I'd love to hear more about the thin walls and sleeving, and the casual bores. I understand what you mean by thin walls and sleeving, but I'm not sure what you mean by "casual bores." If you have time to reply, can you go over to the 200 forum and find me there?
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Thanks for all the help. DougC ::::: 1981 242, IPD bars and Turbo wheels, M46:::::::B23FT, rebuild has finally started, will go in 242:::::::1997 S90

From what I recall, the bores were not all perfectly parallel and perpendicular to the top of the block for example. Weak spots resulted after overboring to refurbish. Guys started sleeving the blocks to remedy. Used to be a lot of info (probably still is) at T-bricks.