Hi all,

Okay this is now very upsetting for me.
I've meticulously built a B20 using original gaskets and seals.
While driving the car around, oil drops onto the floor from the
Bottom of the bell housing.
It is definately engine oil as gear oil has a very distinct smell.

Can it be the rear engine oil seal?
I used one from IPD and also used new bolts on the rear seal housing
Supplied by IPD.

Or can it be the sump gasket?
I used one from CVi with gasket sealer together with new bolts
From IPD.

I've tried best to centre the rear seal.

What have I missed?

Please help.

Thanks
Ravi

Ravi,

Thank you! I thought I was the only one with this problem. I too am having leakage from a freshly rebuilt B20 such as you are experiencing. It has been suggested that crankcase pressure could be a culprit, too. I re-plumbed the PVC system and it seems to have helped a bit. The other possibily is over-filling with oil...

Good luck,

Kent
--
Too much iron, too little time

Perhaps it's leaking from the back of the valve cover and running down the back of the engine. It's kind of tough to see.

I feel for you. After rebuilding my B16, the thing leaks more than ever. It's horrible. Unfortunately the engine will have to be removed to access the rear main housing since bolts go up through the bottom of the block. I've lived with it for a few years, but it's very embarrassing.

Yeh I can relate as its very embarassing indeed...a newly rebuilt engine leaking
Engine oil...
Guess it takes time and patience even though mine is wearing thin...

I've just checked and the rear of the engine under the tappet cover is very oily.
The area close to the starter is oily.
Even the side of the bell housing near the clutch fork is oily.

I am having trouble with the sealing of the tappet cover.
I've used both the IPD rubber gasket and the OE type cork gasket.
I suspect that the tappet cover is twisted.
I did send it for chrome plating so I'm not sure if that caused it.

Anyway, before I take the box off etc, I'm gonna try a good tappet cover, clean
My engine and take it from there.
I will also strip the small portion of the bell housing off and start the engine
To see where the oil comes from (if any).

Hold thumbs for me!

Thanks chaps...

All I have ever used is the cork gasket. Make sure that your valve cover is not bent at the 4 screw holes, people tend to over tighten them trying to stop a leak and that just makes it worse. Guess that's why Volvo used screws, but they forgot to tell us hamfisted guys to ease up on the torque.

My RMS leaks a little, but the clutch is good and the oil pressure is 55psi, so I will live with a diaper under the car. Besides, keeps the rust off the under carriage!

Klaus
--
Did you do your Random Act of Kindness today?

Check your valve cover with a straight edge. They get distorted when you tighten the screws down too hard onto a cork gasket.
There is absolutly nothing wrong with using the felt seals. They work well, are easy to fit and unfussy about alignment. Yes they can be less effective after many years running but new ones will seal like new. Fitting lip seals doesn't guarentee that you'll get no leaks. Thousands of Volvo engines ran leak free for years before the lip seal was introduced. Proper lip seals should have a double lip but these seem to be hard to find and so not used. I'll certainly be happy to use the felt ones next time I have to renew them.

The first thing to do would be to drop the aluminum lower bellhousing brace so you can get a better look. Clean the area, run the motor, watch carefully. Is the rear seal the rigid type or the original felt? If it's the orange type seal you may have lost the spring (I pack them with grease to keep the spring in place). The later Volvo seal (dark brown and thin) comes with a tool to keep the rubbing surface retracted--but that seal will bend easily if not pressed in with the proper installation tool. Felt seals can fail due to shrinkage and/or improper installation. -- Dave