The Single circuit brake master cylinder that came out of my '67 car had the activation rod/yolk attached to the cylinder -- which oriented the brake pedal for adjustment. The new dual circuit master (including adapter) has an activation rod which is not attached to the cylinder bore and just sort of floats there -- making it impossible to use this new rod to position the pedal as before. The only solution I can think of to orient the brake pedal in its proper place is to fabricate some sort of pedal stopping bracket inside the footwell -- which seems unfortunate. Has anyone encountered this problem? I could possibly take the seals from the new cylinder and rebuild one of my parts '68 brake master cylinders (dual and no adapter needed) if the bores were the same. Thanks, Stephen

Ummm guys the brake switch bracket is NOT the stop for the pedal coming backwards. The washer and retaining ring in the master cylinder is the main stop for the pedal travel backwards. I have done this conversion on my 68 122. I used a wilwood master cylinder. You can use a early datsun 240z master cylinder as its the same layout as the wilwood but 7/8 bore. The wilwood is a 1"- that means the original washer and retaining will not work since its smaller than the bore. What I did was take off the spring for the brake pedal to return backwards then shortened the pushrod to the master cylinder to where I wanted the pedal located- It was high when I installed it. The type of rod that came with the kit will not come out since its recessed into the master cylinder. The original set up sits right at the back of the master cylinder bore. I now use the brake switch as a back up stop but it shouldn't be used as so. I also do not have a problem of the brake pedal returning since I unhooked the return spring on the pedal assembly, seems to return just fine.

Hello,

The brake master and adapter you are planning on using was intended for use ln a 1968 Volvo 122 or 1800.

Starting in 1968, the 122/1800 Volvos have a bracket that holds holds the brake light switch.

The designers of the update kit relied on this bracket to keep the pedal from coming up too high.

The easiest way to do this conversion besides starting with the correct 1968 brake master, is to install either a stock brake light switch bracket assembly from a 1968 or later Volvo or buy the brake light switch conversion kit that Ron Kwas sells at SWEM.

--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502

¿Why can't you put the old rod in the new cylinder? All you'd have to do is release the snap ring.
I would NOT use the seals out of the new cylinder in another cylinder - may not even fit!
--
George Downs Bartlesville, Oklahoma

Had a similar issue, although I'm using a master cylinder from an 80's RX7 (about a third of the cost of the Volvo unit).

I ended up making an adjustable pedal stop. Pretty simple; just some angle iron picking up the hood hinge bolts. The car is an automatic so the pedal layout is slightly different. Ability to adjust the stop position is CRITICAL, as is having that adjustment dialed in. There MUST be free play in the pedal at the end of the stroke. If not, you will never uncover the ports that allow fluid and pressure back to the reservoir when you release the brakes. All four corners will gradually lock up. I have one of Ron's brake pedal switches, but it won't work until the manual conversion and B20 installation is done . . .soon hopefully!

Copy and paste the link, too tired to insert the image:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-OOwzGIFxFkA/Tsco5IrirLI/AAAAAAAAFfc/xxtbiBkeMhI/s640/100_4064.JPG

This is what I did:



Used Ron's (Swem) brake light switch, and a piece of metal bar bolted to either sides of the pedal box.

Paul

Is the bracket (Ron's version) itself not burly enough to act as the stop?

Guys;

The manual bracket is mounted on one side only, and overhangs into the pedal box area to locate the switch at the pedal arm...it is easily strong enough to withstand the return spring force of the pedal as it depresses the switch plunger, and so it effectively does limit the pedal return position...but it would have to be checked if it had to withstand any higher force than that from the original pedal spring...and I understand this vehicle is modified here...

The bracket for upgrade of an automatic gearbox vehicle on the other hand is bolted on either side of the pedal box and spans across as shown in the previous post so it would unquestionably be structurally beefy enough to withstand additional force...that is the bracket and kit which I would recommend here...

Cheers from Connecticut (...still not fully recovered from storm Alfred, but getting close...what a darn mess...being out of power for 8 days is kinda like camping (which I don't mind)...only at home (which I do mind)! I'm not complaining...others had it even worse, but that would explain my decreased on-line presence the last couple of weeks if anyone is interested...)