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I was researching piston slap on the Board when I came across a post saying that, after starting the engine, hearing a tapping noise before the oil pressure light goes out is not good. That's exactly what my B23 does. The oil pressure takes at most a few seconds to get to pressure but taps away before then. It's not terribly loud - actually it's more like a rotating cranking-type noise than a metal-on-metal tapping - but it's noticeable. Afterwards, it purrs like a red block should.
The engine has 300,000+ miles but I drive it gingerly and rarely rev it above 3000 RPM.
What do you think - anything to worry about?
--
Mike F - 1984 244 DL - 317,000 miles
Original engine, transmission, drive train, starter
Undergoing reconstructive surgery with POR-15
1972 142 S - The Yellow Brick - 135,000 miles
All stock except for Weber Carb. B20B engine. M40 tranny. 0 - 60 whenever the hell it feels like it.
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I started my daughter's car one day, and it, too, sounded this way. I saw the oil light on for a second or two after starting it -- a sight I never see. Opened the hood, and saw a Jiffy Lube filter. Caught ya!
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
I'm not into working out. My philosophy: No pain; no pain.
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I've inherited my son's 81 which has over 300k mi and the oil light goes out pretty much instantly when the engine starts. I would look to the oil pump seals (as others have mentioned) to make sure you are getting proper lubrication.
Consider testing with a mechanical gauge on the oil pressure port in the side of the block above the oil filter and see what is going on. Hot oil pressure should be more than 50psi at about 2500RPM with 5W30 or 10W30...a little more with heavier grade oil. Much less than that would suggest badly worn bearings or problems with the oil pump supply.
The noise is probably not in the valve train, as there are no hydraulic cam followers in the B23 that depend on oil pressure to operate properly. The red block valve assembly is not the quietest at the best of times, but it's more of a low-level clicking than the harsher "tap" you seem to have.
--
Bob: son's XC70, dtr's '94-940, my 81GL, 83-DL, 89-745(V8) and 98-S90. Also 77-MGB and some old motorcycles.
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I have a VDO oil pressure gauge and at idle it reads around 4 bar when cold, and 2 or 3 when warm. I'm running 10W30 Mobil 1 but plan to switch to G-Oil 5W30 at my next change. I also use Mann filters.
Come to think of it, the sound is more like a cranking noise as opposed to a metal-on-metal tapping noise. Would such a cranking noise be more of a benign issue?
--
Mike F - 1984 244 DL - 317,000 miles
Original engine, transmission, drive train, starter
Undergoing reconstructive surgery with POR-15
1972 142 S - The Yellow Brick - 135,000 miles
All stock except for Weber Carb. B20B engine. M40 tranny. 0 - 60 whenever the hell it feels like it.
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Original engine...300,000+ miles.
Runs good but pecks a little before the oil pressure gets up to snuff.
My opinion....If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
The only thing that I might consider is using a little thicker motor oil.
What brand and weight do you use now?
steve
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I'm currently using Mobil 1 10W30 but plan to use G-Oil 5W30 at my next change to see how my car likes it.
The engine has never been rebuilt and I'm always listening or feeling for signs that it may need open-heart surgery. Thus far, other than the aforementioned noise, it runs wonderfully.
--
Mike F - 1984 244 DL - 317,000 miles
Original engine, transmission, drive train, starter
Undergoing reconstructive surgery with POR-15
1972 142 S - The Yellow Brick - 135,000 miles
All stock except for Weber Carb. B20B engine. M40 tranny. 0 - 60 whenever the hell it feels like it.
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I would probably go the other way if I was going to change the oil viscosity.
Probably something like Castrol 10W40.
The engine clearances are likely larger than they were a couple of hundred thousand miles ago.
A higher viscosity will help fill the "voids".
just my opinion
steve
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I would lean to valve tap since it goes away after the oil pressure comes up. But it still isn't good. Pull the pan and the oil pump to see if the seals are bad on the pump. I don't know how you could test the pump so if it were me I would replace the pump and seals since your in there.
You should check the valve clearance and adjust if needed.Does your B23 have valve hushers,you may wan't to change them. But first do the oil pump and seals before anything else.
Charlie
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Oil weight and ambient temp? Filter brand? All those can effect that.
I'd think hard on pulling the motor/pan and doing rod bearings and maybe an oil pump, in the least the o-rings on the transfer tube. Not that it might not last for ages, but I'd still do it. Piston slap is not a few seconds kinda thing, you'll know it when you hear one with it. And after that first time you'll hear it in almost all of them. B23's are much, much, much less prone to it, being a correctly made motor and all. :)
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Mobil 1, 10W30 is what's in it now but I plan to use G-Oil 5W30 for the winter. I always use Mann or Volvo filters. I've not noticed an ambient temperature pattern.
The one time the noise is most pronounced is the first start-up after an oil and filter change. Could it be the sound of the oil pump running without pressure?
--
Mike F - 1984 244 DL - 317,000 miles
Original engine, transmission, drive train, starter
Undergoing reconstructive surgery with POR-15
1972 142 S - The Yellow Brick - 135,000 miles
All stock except for Weber Carb. B20B engine. M40 tranny. 0 - 60 whenever the hell it feels like it.
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