There's only one way to access the bulbs in the center dash area---opening it up. Remove the side panels (one machine screw and one 1/4 turn twist pastic "screw" per side) and then the two machine screws at the bottom, rear facing (just ahead of the shifter) of the plastic surround. Pull the plastic surround away to expose screws at each corner of the center dash frame. Remove those and then tilt the frame back to gain access to the wire harness for the illumination bulbs--pull the plastic bulb holders out to change the bulbs. Nimble fingers or needle nose pliers are helpful. -- Dave