Here's the listings for the correct hoses from Eeuroparts.com . As you can see, they're pretty cheap. If you go to the site and use the drill-down menus for your make, model, year, and parts, you can see pictures of them.

Part Code Name Brand Price Qty
9141261 Heater hose (outlet)
See this part in: COOLING SYSTEMS
ÜRO Parts (APA) $4.24
463524 Heater Hose (upper)
See this part in: COOLING SYSTEMS
ÜRO Parts (APA) $3.91

As long as the hoses the parts store sold you are the correct I.D. and can be routed where they need to go w/out stressing anything or rubbing on anything, it doesn't really matter if they're exactly the same shape. On the other hand, the lower hose in particular is a pain in the butt. Besides being routed around the dipstick, it attaches to the metal pipe that attaches to the back of the water pump and travels along the block underneath the exhaust manifold, so having the correct shape really helps. To replace that hose, I've had to remove the metal pipe first by doing the following...

1. Remove the nut and bolt holding the aforementioned pipe to the water pump.
2. Remove the metal shroud covering the exhaust manifold that the preheat hose is connected to (if it's still there).
3. Feel around underneath the manifold, find the other bold that holds the metal coolant pipe in place, and remove it.
4. Assuming you've already removed the other end of the heater hose from the firewall fitting, you should now be able to carefully maneuver the metal pipe (w/ the other end of the heater hose still attached) enough to be able to get at the connection and remove that end of the heater hose.
5. Put the new hose on the metal pipe first, making sure it's oriented correctly for eventual reattachment to the firewall fitting. Do NOT attach it to the firewall fitting yet..but DO make sure it's tightened down well on the coolant pipe.
6. Reattach the metal pipe to the back of the waterpump w/ the nut and bolt, making sure you haven't damaged the thick black flat-sided O-ring and that it's seated properly.
7. Wrestle the nut back into place underneath the manifold that holds the coolant pipe, and tighten it down. Replace the metal shroud. Throw away your preheater hose if you haven't already.
8. Finally, attach the other end of the hose to your firewall. Check carefully for leaks upon startup, and PRAY that you don't have any leaks at the connection behind the engine between the coolant hose and the pipe. If so, you get to do it all again! Yay!! If you cleaned up the end of the pipe well, have the correct I.D. hose, used a good clamp and tightened it down properly, you'll be fine.. not trying to scare you.

Maybe someone else has managed to change that lower heater hose w/ out going through all of that, but could NOT find a way to reach the clamp and wrestle the hose off the pipe without doing the above procedure. If one of you experts DOES have a tip, please share it.

Good luck.. happy bricking!

Barry