So, I'm contemplating a clutch replacement. M47 II 89 245..... On a scale of 1-10, my skill level is somewhere around 7. Give or take... I would like to know what I'm in store for, as I've never done one before, but that hasn't stopped me in the past. Usually, I'm pretty successful tho.

I've got 2 jacks. One is a 1.5 ton, and the other's a 3 ton. Also 2 jackstands, not 4... But, do I need to rent a transmission jack? The one with the wheels? I've heard it's no problem getting it down, but to put it back in, you really need one of these.

Also, as far as parts go, I've heard you need:

-Sachs kit, with the pressure plate, clutch disk, and the release bearing.
-Alignment tool
-Pilot bearing (does OEM matter?)

What about a rear crankshaft seal? Also, I have a motor mount (Febi) that I would assume be the proper time to replace as well. Is there anything else worth mentioning? Or tools that I need? Am I foolish to assume that I can do this job?... I'll probably have 1 or 2 other people helping/heckling as well.

But, there's a guy my friend knows willing to replace the whole thing for 300 bucks, not including parts.

Not sure if he's going to do a good job or not, but if I supply the parts (All of them) is this a fair deal?.... I'm just trying to save my buddy some money, but I also want him to have a car to drive.... Cheapest way would by DIY but what does anyone else think?

A swivel socket or a regular socket and a swivel ('U' Joint) will be very helpful in getting the upper bolts out of the Bellhousing. a few 12" extensions to get you back behind the trani works best.
Rolling Floor jack under the trani can help you get it high enough to get under it and muscle it up. A strong Wife is a great help so you can get that last final 1" of gap as the shaft finds the Pilot bearing.
Pull the trani Back past the Alignment pins, Rotate entire transmission Counterclockwise (when looking at back of engine), until the Starter Bump gets past the trani tunnel, then out and down.
I did did my rear seal. The Pilot bearing that came in the kits was fine. Probably as good as what I took out. Read up on taking out the Pilot bearing, I made up a small puller but some people do it with Grease and a Wooden Dowel and pressure it out.
If you do the rear seal, Mark a hole on the Fly wheel and the corresponding bolt hole on the Engine Crank it DOES matter how the Flywheel goes on.
The wires for the Backup lights.. These wire have crappy insulation ( even on the '89) you may want to give yourself some time to replace the wires on this little harness.



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Used a floor jack with a piece of 2x4 between it and the tranny. I also put a strong iron bar across the front seats and tied up the end of the tranny with some moving straps from Home Depot. It allows for the end to swing around while the jack lifts it. I would search the archives and read up on it and visualize the entire process knowing you have the whole job covered with tools and parts.

The crank position sensor you should remove. Not sure if it will need to be replaced. First time expect to take a couple days.

When I did this the alignment tool came with the kit.

I would get a couple more jack stands. You will need a mimimum 12" extension to reach the top transmission mounting bolt. There are two alignment pins that require coercion to get the transmission separated from the engine. If the '89 has it I would definitely replace the crank position sensor. If the plastic is damaged on the clutch cable, get a new one there, also. I did not do the rear oil seal on the 240, but did replace it on my V70 when I did its clutch last year since it was at 320k.

I disconnected teh drive shaft and removed the exhaust system, then lowered the back of the engine until it was resting on the firewall. This gave pretty good access to the difficult bolts and the CPS. To remove (and install) the transmission you need to pull it back, then rotate it so the starter hump clears the firewall. I used a transmission jack and thought it was more in the way.

Overall not a real hard job, especially compared to the V70.

Ok, there is a crank position sensor... I'm not sure what it does, but I believe you.

http://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/PartDetail3.php?utm_expid=333274-3&partCode=3547847

Still adding up... Wow 12" extension with a swivel I assume.

Where did you get the kit that it came with an alignment tool?

Clutch kit was Sachs from FCPGroton. The CPS tells the ignition computer where the crank is so it knows when to fire the coil. No signal = no spark. They will fail eventually, often starting (according to this forum) by causing hot start problems. Access is normally difficult and its supporting bracket is weak and easily broken. If it breaks you need to pull the transmission. Mine was corroded enough that it took putting the bracket in a vice and twisting the CPS to free it up. I would not have been able to do that with it on the car. I wasn't sure when they started using the CPS -- my '88 doesn't have it (Chrysler ignition) but the '90 does.

I believe I got a 12" extension for this job and added two 6" extensions to get the bolt from way back. btw I emailed you a pic of the CPS.

Also, I recall trying to adjust the clutch cable and not getting that far. Either it seemed like it got to a point and just spun, and wouldn't quite adjust as far as I'd like, or it was close enough and I gave up... Either way, is that something else to replace? Can I trust an aftermarket manufacturer?... Sounds like it could get expensive to do it right...

The linkage also looks crusty from underneath. But I've always assumed I could just hose it down with PB or something to that effect, if it mattered at all, that is..

Or how about this?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5qV7HfTowA