Hi,

I think most leave the inner tie rods alone unless there is play in the inner tie rod joint itself.

Makes sense to do ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar bushings if they're bad because in the process of doing the struts or strut mounts you will disassemble part of the above items anyway.

You probably won't need a tie rod separator-most use 2 hammers but you can also use a gear puller (what I did).

Get yourself a stool to sit on while you drop the strut assembly down and out of the wheel well. Also have on hand a ratchet strap, rope, etc-something to hold the strut assembly from coming too far out and damaging your brakes lines/hoses.

2 pipe wrenches or a pipe wrench and a pair of channel locks. One to hold and one to turn the gland nut.

Are your control arm bushings in good shape? Hard to tell sometimes until you get things apart.

Are your rubber strut boots shredded?

An impact wrench will make things go faster, if you don't have one (and a 15/16" impact socket) you'll need a Harbor Freight 15/16" offset wrench to get to the top strut nut. If you use the HF wrench you'll also need an adjustable wrench to hold the top of the strut piston.

Blue thread locker for the fasteners you'll reuse.

Pblaster-good idea to spray fasteners several times for several days before the job.

Travis