I'm trying to replace the coolant temperature sensor for the fuel injection system (LH 2.0). I ordered one and replaced it at the location circled. Is this the sensor for the LH system or for the dash temp gauge? (I may have been sent the wrong type of sensor but the one I extracted from the engine looked just like what I ordered, so I installed it.)

The Bentley manual said that the sensor needed was located under the third intake tube...not sure which one that is. An illustration showed the sensor located at the back of the engine next to the firewall. If that's the case, how does one access that area without taking off the entire intake manifold?

I'm chasing a poor fuel economy problem, BTW.


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Mike F - 1984 244 DL - 317,000 miles
Original engine, transmission, drive train, starter
Undergoing reconstructive surgery with POR-15

1972 142 S - The Yellow Brick - 135,000 miles
All stock except for Weber Carb. B20B engine. M40

Looks more like temp gauge sender.
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Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.

Grr. Oh, well. Time for a new gauge sensor after 29 years of use.

Where is the LH's temp sender? I hope it's the one right below the one circled in the pic.
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Mike F - 1984 244 DL - 317,000 miles
Original engine, transmission, drive train, starter
Undergoing reconstructive surgery with POR-15

1972 142 S - The Yellow Brick - 135,000 miles
All stock except for Weber Carb. B20B engine. M40

"Where is the LH's temp sender? I hope it's the one right below the one circled in the pic."

Hi Mike,

That one you see in your pic is the knock sensor. Your ECT is below the flame trap. It looks like this. You count cylinders (or runners) from the front.

You can pull it without removing the manifold if you get the AMM hose out of the way and go in with a deep well 19mm (or 3/4") socket on a 10" 3/8-drive extension. Make sure not to lose the copper gasket. Don't overlook corrosion problems with the connector if your harness is original or the boot is torn. Like most of this car work, you have to eyeball it first with flashlight and mirror, and then work blind from memory by touch.

Slightly less manly than the greasy work testing your lumbar disc suppleness swapping the sensor, is following Volvodad's suggestion to instead test the voltage (or resistance) from the comfort of the passenger cabin.


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Art Benstein near Baltimore

Before you criticize someone, you should walk a mile in his shoes. That way, when you criticize him, you're a mile away and you have his shoes.

Thanks Art.

Is the ECT visible in the pic I provided - located "behind" the knock sensor, or do I have to dig for it beneath the flame trap? If that isn't the ECT, what sensor is visible in my pic?
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Mike F - 1984 244 DL - 317,000 miles
Original engine, transmission, drive train, starter
Undergoing reconstructive surgery with POR-15

1972 142 S - The Yellow Brick - 135,000 miles
All stock except for Weber Carb. B20B engine. M40

That one you see in your pic is the knock sensor. Your ECT is below the flame trap.

If you look closely, you will see the knock sensor is screwed into the block. The temperature sensors are in the head. Your ECT is not visible in your picture.


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Art Benstein near Baltimore

If you think nobody cares if you're alive, try missing a couple of car payments.

Perfect, that's exactly what I needed to know. Thanks Art! Now to start digging for that sensor...
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Mike F - 1984 244 DL - 317,000 miles
Original engine, transmission, drive train, starter
Undergoing reconstructive surgery with POR-15

1972 142 S - The Yellow Brick - 135,000 miles
All stock except for Weber Carb. B20B engine. M40