I'm need to know how to replace the Oil Trap Exit Hose on a 94 945. I'm already replacing the rest of the vent system and the oil pan gasket. I've already replaced the timing belt, drive belts, gaskets, hoses, etc. Just bought the car for my daughter and am catching up on the "deferred" maintenance.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Dear rpwood,

Hope you're well. I second The Rod's comments about working on the oil trap drain tube.

If you've not yet replaced the oil pan gasket, I believe the best method is to raise the engine so the front of the oil pan can clear the cross-member. I mention this, because I recall having seen a post, where the oil pan was removed by removing the steering rack and its cross-member, to allow the oil pan to be pulled forward. This seems to me a far more complicated method, as it involves having to take free many suspension parts.

To raise the engine, it must be separated from its mounts and the exhaust pipe should be freed from the bracket, that attaches it to the transmission.

If the engine mounts are not in good shape, this is the time to replace them. If the clearance between the oil pan and the cross-member is less than 3/16", the motor mounts are "tired". If the engine rests on the cross-member, the mounts are at the end of their service life.

Once the engine has been separated from the mounts, it can be hoisted just enough to allow the oil pan to clear the cross member. I believe there's specific guidance in the FAQs.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

If you are talking about the oil return hose underneath the breather box it is not typically removed and replaced. If it appears plugged you can CAREFULLY ream it out with small diameter wire and solvent. But you risk pushing it down into crankcase as its only secured with a small clip. I guess if you are dropping the oil pan it wouldn't matter as you would be able to easily then replace it and its securing clip with the pan down. As an aside the tube is considered "unneeded" by the author of this article on the topic of B230F crank case ventilation:
http://www.pbase.com/stealthfti/pcv

Jerry, The Rod and Spook,

Thanks for your help. I'll not mess with it unless it messes with me!

rpwood

Tube unneeded...
I have read all of Thomas's site and that particular catch can entry several times over the years (I am pursuing a top end build based on his recs), and I cannot find where he says or implies that the drain tube is unneeded. Can you point that out perhaps?
It's been my understanding that the tube is submerged at the end; if not, then the 'drain' would then be another place of vapor pressure.

http://www.pbase.com/stealthfti/image/26973303

"Additional note: I do not install the oil return hose...the one that is held in place next to the oil pump. And which supposedly returns any oil precipitated out of the crankcase blowby in the separator box back down into the oil pan.

I do not use that hose for a very good reason: it causes problems.

On a motor with a lot of miles, or on a boosted motor, any excess blowby pressure can actually PUSH oil UP the hose, into the separator box, and on into the motor. I've seen it happen"

Well thanks, I don't know how I missed that. Hmm...