Hello All,

If I apply 12v directly to the clutch via the white wire (actually via a connector power goes into the compressor from a green wire) I get no clutch actuation. If I ground the body of the compressor and apply 12v again through the white wire and still no clutch actuation is my clutch toast? It reads 4 ohms and turns freely. I also checked the black wire ground connection and that seems to be proper although looking from the top down (vs removing the belly pan) the black wire running into the compressor "looks" ok.

Think I have a dead clutch or am I missing something. I'm assuming that grounding the body of the compressor is sufficient and that looking any further with the dedicated black ground wire is unnecessary. Note that when I apply 12v with a jumper I get a spark at the pos battery terminal.

Do I have a dead clutch?

Marty Wolfson
Proud member of the 300K club

Note that when I apply 12v with a jumper I get a spark at the pos battery terminal.

This is a pretty reliable indication you are not chasing an electrical problem.

--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

"Only Marxist Cuba and North Korea still cling to a political and ideologic corpse, perhaps hoping for protection under the endangered species act" - General

Colin L. Powell

Hi Joe,

Didn't get there yet. We've been away, so I haven't had a chance to get under the green sedan and take a close look at that ground wire, but based upon Art's comment, it looks like I'm not going to have much luck there.

I'll post back. On my other car, a 93 green wagon, I should note that just to verify, I did put power directly to the compressor clutch (again, the white wire which connects to the green wire) and the clutch pops out, presumably engaging.

Marty

Marty, what year is the car in question?

Hello Joe,

Well, I've had a chance to do some above and below engine bay troubleshooting, at least as far as checking the power lead and ground and have come to the conclusion that the clutch is toast. Don't exactly know why, but after 205K it has failed.

Applying power directly to the compressor gets no clutch movement and I've checked the ground wire which seems to be in fine shape. Of course I don't know what happens to these two wires once they enter the body of the compressor.

So it looks like I need a new/reman/used operating compressor, new drier and a recharge. Wish me luck.

Marty

Marty,

The clutch on my 240 went out a few years ago, and instead of just replacing the clutch I went ahead and bought a remanufactured one on Ebay from Jensen Auto in Michigan. It wasn't that much extra. I have been very satisfied with it. The Seiko Seiki was 160 dollars.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1993-1995-Volvo-240-940-2-3L-AC-Compressor-/180944212498?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item2a211d9212

Good luck!
--
93' 240 Classic Wagon 220K & 92' 740 Wagon Regina/Rex 90K

Hi Pat,

So after checking prices, it looks like a $400+ job for me. I'd prefer a new compressor and Advance sells them for under $200 + drier. I have to figure a couple of hours or more of labor for the mechanic that helps me with this stuff.

Bottom line is my daughter drives the car. We live in upstate NY so although it's been 90 for the last week and expected to continue, our heat wave is certainly not like yours. For now, $400 is not in the budget and she can sweat a little. I suppose if she begins to complain..........then we might entertain the project.


Marty

Sounds good. I feel bad for a lot of the 240's I see here in Memphis in the summertime with the windows rolled down in this heat.

I know it is probably the blower motor or compressor/clutch. Either way is hot business!

Good luck!
--
93' 240 Classic Wagon 220K & 92' 740 Wagon Regina/Rex 90K

Hello, You won't have to replace the drier if there is no metal in the a/c lines. It is possible to just change the clutch. Tools are readily available and you can use a good used compressor for the clutch. Pauli

What year? I am pretty sure the rotary compressors are completely electrically isolated from the chassis ground by the bushings.

The black wire is the ground for the clutch and its very common for it to sever. Check it closely. Was the failure on my 88 many moons ago. Pull on it from the top or drop the belly pan as the break occurs by the block.

Thanks Joe,

I'll check some more tomorrow. Wouldn't that be a treat to find that the only problem is a bad ground.

Marty

Marty,
thats my guess as the clutch is not seized.