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this has been the most reliable vehicle I have ever owned. Been having some issues as of late. Going down a highway everything was running fine, looked down at my speed, noticed the check engine light was on, looked around the console, temp gauge was pegged. Awww crap I though, pulled it over as fast as I could and shut off the engine. popped the hood, and a jet of steam was coming out from behind the water pump pulley, and coolant was coming out the coolant bottle. had her towed home, thinking it was just water pump failure. ordered a new aftermarket pump, after accidentally splitting the little o-ring that sets into the back of the pump and tracking down one of those, got the new pump installed. filled it with coolant, fired it up. sounded same as it always does; turned on the heater figuring that would help get any air out of the system. Engine got to about half way on the temp, then coolant started coming out of the coolant bottle again. Tried squeezing the hoses to burp the cooling system, got a fair amount of air out of it, tried again. same thing. I also notice the electric fan is not kicking on. I was unsure of what was wrong, so I brought the reservoir cap in, and asked what might be wrong. he says the cap is probably fine, and that, "That model just doesn't do that". sounds like it might be your head gasket. Unfortunately this has been a bad month and I'm pretty low on pocket change. including the money to replace the head gasket at a garage. Ive almost certainly jumped the gun on this one, but they had a head gasket set at the shop. I bought that and am in progress of replacing it. I really like working on this car, so much room. I probably should have had it towed to a garage and had them do leak down tests and whatnot. but didn't have funds to have it towed back plus probably hundred bucks or so for diagnostics. then Still have to pay to get it fixed.
If the head gasket doesn't fix my problem, where should I look next, other than having pressure test done on cooling system?
probably should replace all radiator hoses, radiator before they become problems. I'll put a new timing belt on after I get the head back on. Tried getting the crankshaft pulley off, but my impact wrench doesn't fit. so I think I'll try and get my hands on the tool for doing it. plus the timing belt cover was busted up pretty bad, in some ways that was a good thing, cause I didn't have to remove the back portion of it to get the head off. Probably look for one of those at the junk yard. along with a few other items. ( mounting bolt for AC compressor, Turn signal lens, Washing fluid cap, Timing belt cover )
Other odd things I've noticed. When I turn on the ignition, the spedo jumps.
Cooling fan doesn't kick on, even when it overheated it didn't turn on.
Unsure of radiator age, probably should be replaced, looks a bit beaten.
after puling the head the spark plugs look suspiciously bad.
car seems to bog down when first accelerating when cold.
Picture of Cylinders after head removed:
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B6Xe5NrdHvBRNnRvengwcTFlYVk/edit?usp=sharing
Picture of Valves:
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B6Xe5NrdHvBRNXEzYkRrX3B0TE0/edit?usp=sharing
Picture of Spark plug in head, looks like electrode is pointy now.
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B6Xe5NrdHvBRWVBJUWpadE9qNFE/edit?usp=sharing
Picture of Valves, (are they supposed to be that color?
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B6Xe5NrdHvBRVzRYT3J1d0dZdTA/edit?usp=sharing
Picture of Valves on Cylinder #4 Looks like some oil built up in the cylinder?
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B6Xe5NrdHvBRd2pyYk9Zb0pSZkE/edit?usp=sharing
This is my first head gasket job, so I have no idea what exactly to expect. The head is going to the shop on monday to be checked and probably at least resurfaced. I'll probably have them check the clearances as well. might need a Valve job, It just rolled 200,000 miles.
Thanks in advance for any help at all.
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I had the same problem on my son's 92 model 940 about 3 years ago.
I almost....I'm mean almost....replaced the head gasket because all of the symptoms were consistent with a blown headgasket.
As a last resort, I started at the beginning again and ran down all of the possible causes, and suddenly it occured to me, the cooling fan wasn't running.
On the 92 model, (Volvo changed it in 93) the temperature switch that is located on the passenger side of the radiator (toward the engine) controls the cooling fan.
This switch had failed.
A simple fix, and a great relief because I didn't want to pull the head.
I don't know whether to say that I hope this helps, but there you go.
steve
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Yeah noticed my fan wasn't kicking on as well. Just tested the relay, relay seems good. What do I have to change now? Looks like there is a temp sensor on the block, and another on the radiator. I tried ohming out the one on the radiator. But keep getting an open. I'm guessing that is the bad part? Is that something I could get at autozone? But changed the headgasket anyway, just finishing that up. Everythings all together, it runs and heats up, doesn't / hasn't blown coolant out the resivoir yet.
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anybody familiar with this one? a little cheaper than the IPD one.
http://www.amazon.com/CTA-Tools-2242-Crankshaft-Holding/dp/B00AZJYFEI/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
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...about using a short piece of rope in the cylinder? It's quick, safe, simple, and works every time.
If you feel you must have "the tool", I'll sell you mine (OE Volvo) for $25 plus postage. It gets no use from me since I learned of the rope trick a few years ago.
P.S. Just make a simple cardboard template for the 60° angle torquing.
--
Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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To the head in to the volvo place this morning, for it to be checked and resurfaced. The people at Ithaca Foreign Auto specialize in volvos, and would have probably had them change the headgasket if I had the funds. They are really nice, although seem to be incredibly busy right now. I tried to keep the head as Intact as possible, perhaps this wasn't the smartest Idea, he said they probably wouldn't want it like that at the machine shop; then said, he's a big boy, he can handle it.
I got my head gasket kit from them (volvo shop), so I'm guessing its a genuine volvo part, athough I'll have to look on the packaging tonight. For now the head gasket is attached to the engine block, I'm going to wait for someone who knows a bit more about this stuff to take a look at it before I scrape it off.
Looks like I need to get my hands on a Torque angle guage, I don't mind buying tools, and they looks relatively inexpensive. Thankfully I was gifted a 1/2 drive, clicker torque wrench, so I already have that.
If I was brave, I would probably attempt to do the valves. but looks like you need special spring tensioners to do that. The Gasket kit looks like it comes with just about every gasket and seal for the top end. so should probably replace them all while I'm in there. although I'm not sure how I'm going to get the gear/pully off from the cam shaft. I've been doing some reading. Looks like some of that is going to have to wait until I get the head back though, as the tool for the crankshaft needs the tensioner in place to mount to, and thats on the head.
As for measuring the length of the bolts, how acurate are we talking? My digital calipers don't open up any more than 6 inches.
I did check the transmission, and while the fluid doesn't look great, it doesn't look like it has coolant in it. Doesn't look brown and burnt, also doesn't look cherry red either. probably flush that out, fill it back up, drive around for 1000 mi, then do it again, as suggested by the shop. Guess I'll also ask them about a radiator as well. ~$250?
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If you attempt to replace the front seals use only a Volvo OEM seal for the crank. Aftermarkets work well on the cam and intermediate shafts. Your best shot of not having it leak is to remove the cover and have a shop press them in for you. Use the skin of a small yogurt container to slip the seals over the shafts. It makes the installation go a lot easier and prevents the seals from binding.
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Ok, silly stupid question, where exactly are the three seals, I know there is one on the camshaft, looks like you have to take the camshaft back out for that, one on the crankshaft, so got to get that stupid pulley off. then one on the other shaft for the timing belt? anyone got pictures?
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See the 700/900 FAQ . Same motor as your 240.
Picture in the FAQ which is accessible via the drop-down --more-- menu at the top of this screen.
--
Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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See the 700/900 FAQ . Same motor as your 240.
Picture in the FAQ which is accessible via the drop-down --more-- menu at the top of this screen.
--
Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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Sounds like things are going well.
The absolute length of the head bolts isn't real important, just the differences. They should all be within a, maybe, 1/32 inch(guessing). If there is a long one, it should be replaced. I have never had to replace one and have done about 5 head gasket replacements.
It is a good time to replace the 3 front seals of the engine. They are cheap and easy to replace.
The gear on the camshaft will come right off with no tools when the bolt is removed. A swift blow on the wrench with a rubber hammer will loosen it. For tightening it, I have a chain wrench but have used the oil filter wrench (squeeze type) with rags or something else to make a tight fit of the wrench. Check, but if I remember right the torque on the camshaft bolt is only 36 ft-lbs.
From the faqs:
http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/HeadgasketRepair/HeadgasketRepair.htm
INSTALLATION PROCEDURES
Ensure that the camshaft is positioned so that the valves are closed on the No. 1 cylinder and the No. 1 piston is at TDC. Install the new head gasket with top marked upward (and don't use sealant!). Ensure that the O-ring for the water pump sits correctly in the groove (this is a good time to replace the water pump). Install the cylinder head.
Apply a light coat of oil on the new head bolts before installation. Install and tighten bolts in sequence to the specification using the three stages (also see Fig. 3). Start at 14 ft.-lbs., then go to 43 ft.-lbs., then go an additional 90 degrees.
--
Mine: 4-940s running, 2-740 and 1-940 parts cars, and 3 1959 John Deere 630s (1 for parts), dtr1:3-940s, dtr2:1-740
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#4 does show evidence of running rich. Either a leaky injector or a bad valve guide/seal on that cylinder. I'd be tempted to send the injectors out to one of the places that cleans them to eliminate that possibility. There are a number of places like this one: http://cleaninginjector.com/
When they clean up your head make sure they replace the valve stem seals as well.
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Sorry for your loss. Most of us long term 4 cylinder B23 and B230 Volvo drivers have been through this.
I would also check the transmission fluid for anti-freeze since the radiator had lots of pressure and the heat exchanger there may be leaking.
It is good to re-surface the head as you planned on doing.
You can re-use the head bolts but check the lengths and replace any that are longer than the rest even though the repair manuals say they should all be replaced. Stretched bolts are weaker. The bolts need to be oiled before torquing and angle tightening (90 degrees after torquing). Also, run a tap in the holes to clean the threads. Some people on the Brickboard say you shouldn't use the cheap head gaskets.
It would be a perfect time to replace the coolant reservoir with one having a low anti-freeze sensor since your reservoir is probably quite weak or cracked from the high pressure. The light is probably already in your instrument panel (it is in the 93 940s but not the 91 740s), you just need to run a wire to the new or used reservoir. The 960s have this type reservoir if you can find a junked one. There is a write-up in the faqs about how to do this.
I use a 1/2" air wrench to tighten the crank bolt. I use the highest setting but only 100 PSI. I then use 120 PSI to remove the bolt easily. Also, anti-seize is good to use on this bolt.
Let us know your progress.
--
Mine: 4-940s running, 2-740 and 1-940 parts cars, and 3 John Deere 630s, dtr1:3-940s, dtr2:1-740
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Here are a few tips for starters. I'm sure others will follow.
"Cooling fan doesn't kick on, even when it overheated it didn't turn on."
• Maybe a bad temp sensor/switch in right side radiator tank.
• Or bad Fan Control relay (down low in front of battery on '92 I think.
• Open fusible link (gray insulation) leading from Battery + terminal to Fan Control relay (my son had this on his '92 940).
"Unsure of radiator age, probably should be replaced, looks a bit beaten."
• Unfasten the 3 brackets that secure the fan assembly at the top. Pull it back so you can examine the back (motor) side of the radiator. Chances are the fins will be rotting away and/or clogged with crud.
"Tried getting the crankshaft pulley off, but my impact wrench doesn't fit. so I think I'll try and get my hands on the tool for doing it."
• If you can get your hands on 3 feet of clothesline, that's the tool that I and many others use. See THIS POST . To my knowledge, this is the only "trick" holding tool method that allows tightening the bolt to book spec of 44 lb ft, then an additional 60° angle tighten (B230), or 122 ft lbs. for B21/23.
--
Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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