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Sounds like things are going well.
The absolute length of the head bolts isn't real important, just the differences. They should all be within a, maybe, 1/32 inch(guessing). If there is a long one, it should be replaced. I have never had to replace one and have done about 5 head gasket replacements.
It is a good time to replace the 3 front seals of the engine. They are cheap and easy to replace.
The gear on the camshaft will come right off with no tools when the bolt is removed. A swift blow on the wrench with a rubber hammer will loosen it. For tightening it, I have a chain wrench but have used the oil filter wrench (squeeze type) with rags or something else to make a tight fit of the wrench. Check, but if I remember right the torque on the camshaft bolt is only 36 ft-lbs.
From the faqs:
http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/HeadgasketRepair/HeadgasketRepair.htm
INSTALLATION PROCEDURES
Ensure that the camshaft is positioned so that the valves are closed on the No. 1 cylinder and the No. 1 piston is at TDC. Install the new head gasket with top marked upward (and don't use sealant!). Ensure that the O-ring for the water pump sits correctly in the groove (this is a good time to replace the water pump). Install the cylinder head.
Apply a light coat of oil on the new head bolts before installation. Install and tighten bolts in sequence to the specification using the three stages (also see Fig. 3). Start at 14 ft.-lbs., then go to 43 ft.-lbs., then go an additional 90 degrees.
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Mine: 4-940s running, 2-740 and 1-940 parts cars, and 3 1959 John Deere 630s (1 for parts), dtr1:3-940s, dtr2:1-740
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