Volvo RWD 200 Forum

INDEX FOR 10/2025(CURRENT) INDEX FOR 8/2010 200 INDEX

[<<]  [>>]


THREADED THREADED EXPANDED FLAT PRINT ALL
MESSAGES IN THIS THREAD




  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Just Changed Brakes (Brake Failure Warning) 200 1991

posted by  Jades on  Sun Oct 20 18:57 CST 2013
Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
last visit: Mon Sep 22 00:31 CST 2014
[RELATED]

1991 Automatic Volvo 240 with 147,500 miles.

In good shape, although its first winter in Vermont did a number on it.

Two problems: 1) When I was driving around today testing the new pads I replaced, I noticed a brake failure warning light. I finally got around to purging the air from the brake system from last time I bled it (I settled for a slightly squishy pedal). I replaced the front brake pads, though I couldn't fit the shims in there. On the back brakes the pads were at ~6-7mm, so I just replaced the pins and springs, and greased the seals and pistons. I finally have a hard pedal, so I'm not sure why I have a brake failure warning. Any ideas?

2) When I got the calipers back onto the brakes, the rotor wasn't turning freely-the brakes were rubbing quite a bit on the rotor. Even on the back brakes (more the left than the right), where I re-installed the same pads, there was some drag. Is this normal after changing the brakes? Do they take some time to "break" in?

Thanks for your help,

Jimmy








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    Just Changed Brakes (Brake Failure Warning) 200 1991

    posted by  Jades on  Mon Oct 21 15:10 CST 2013
    Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
    last visit: Mon Sep 22 00:31 CST 2014
    [RELATED]

    I used a big c clamp and a block of wood to push the pistons in. The pistons retracted a little past the seal. I cranked very hard--it was difficult to get a good hold on the caliper with it detached from the car--until it would really go further (rather it seemed the pistons were just denting the wood). How far in is the piston supposed to go?








    •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

      Just Changed Brakes (Brake Failure Warning) 200 1991

      posted by  TONY H on  Tue Oct 22 06:05 CST 2013
      Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
      last visit: Fri Oct 17 16:39 CST 2014
      [RELATED]

      The Piston should go back until it is even with the caliper surface.
      I just wanted to make sure you pushed the Pistons back. Some folks that are doing brakes for the first time do noit know to do that and wonder why they can't get the Pads in.
      --
      '75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/








      •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

        Just Changed Brakes (Brake Failure Warning) 200 1991

        posted by  Volvo From Heck on  Tue Oct 22 06:30 CST 2013
        Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
        last visit: Mon Oct 13 20:56 CST 2014
        [RELATED]

        The piston seals can take a great deal of abuse. Take one pad out at a time and lever the pistons in (I use a thin old pad for this) -- have an assistant pump it out a few stroke and then push them back in -- repeat until the piston(s) moves smoothly and retracts all the way. Replace that one pad and then move to the next side of the caliper. It may take 10-15 cycles to get to where you want to be for each side. Use as long a lever as practical. You may see the rotor actually flex as you lever the pistons in -- don't panic--it will be fine. Bleeding to flush the old fluid out would be a good thing. -- Dave








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

    Just Changed Brakes (Brake Failure Warning) 200 1991

    posted by  TONY H on  Mon Oct 21 12:06 CST 2013
    Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
    last visit: Fri Oct 17 16:39 CST 2014
    [RELATED]

    did you push the Caliper pistons back far enough?
    --
    '75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me http://home.lyse.net/brox/TonyPage4.html http://cleanflametrap.com/tony/








    •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

      Just Changed Brakes (Brake Failure Warning) 200 1991

      posted by  oldyellr on  Mon Oct 21 14:29 CST 2013
      Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
      last visit: Fri Oct 24 14:28 CST 2014
      [RELATED]

      Because he could not get the shims in (those supposedly anti-squeak shims that go on the back of the pads) I would presume he didn't get the piston(s) all the way back.

      When I replaced the front rotors and pads (Girling) on my 745, I could not get the piston on the driver's side all the way back and had to force the caliper and pads on without the shims. Test-driving the car, it first pulled to the left, but after a bit pulled to right when braking because the pads were overheated an faded. When I got back and parked, the left wheel was smoking. Clearly, this wasn't going to work. I ended up replacing one of the new pads with a slightly worn one, plus the shims, and all is well now.

      Maybe the piston could not be forced back all the way due to corrosion in the seldom-used bottom of the bore, but I wasn't about to rebuild the caliper.
      --
      1992 745, >500k km








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    Just Changed Brakes (Brake Failure Warning) 200 1991

    posted by  Blindboy on  Sun Oct 20 20:20 CST 2013
    Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
    last visit: Tue Oct 21 17:56 CST 2014
    [RELATED]

    I believe that means there is still air in the lines,I hope when you lubed any brake parts you used synthetic lube Not grease,If you used power flushed them,,completely you would get any crud out,,If the cylinders are still stiff,,they may be scored & need to be replaced..if they stick & doing not release completely,,you will be burning gas,,,NOT cheap.







<< < > >>



©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.