My daughter is fine so is the other driver but she is not happy to be losing her old friend of about 8 years.

She hit the left rear of a VW SUV with her right front it folded up the fender and inner fender pretty good and I am concerned the right strut tower may have been pushed back. The impact originally hit on the bumper but eventually road over the bumper doing all the sheet metal damage. The hood has shifted back about 3/8 " on the right side and overlaps the cowl by about a 1/4 " the hinges don't look like they have shifted or slid back.



I have made this repair i.e. straightened the inner fender, part of the unibody on another 240 but it was not as folded up as this one. That repair required a fender and radiator support.

What kind of measurements can I make to confirm damage? Any insight is appreciated.


Thanks
Dan

Hi Dan,

I am sorry to hear and I am very glad that your daughter is ok. FYI. You might get a better reading by using this tool.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-30-ft-Sonic-Distance-Tape-Measure-with-Laser-Pointer-E49ST01/202351928

Neat 'quick and dirty' tool but at 0.5% plus or minus accuracy not a real measuring instrument. That 0.5% is 1.8 inches at 30' never mind that it is -1.8" to +1.8". Wouldn't want to build a house with one of those.

Thank you

I like that tool may get one, how do you place it for the zero start point?
Thanks
Dan

I don't have that Ryobi, but I have a Bosch version (model GLR225), purchased at either Lowe's or Home Depot, and it's pretty accurate.
The base (that you're asking about) measurement for my unit (it may be the same for the Ryobi) is user switched between two modes.
1) it's the back of the unit. In other words, for conventional measurements of, e.g., a room, you place the back of the unit up against a wall and "shoot" the opposite wall -- the displayed distance takes into account the length of the unit.
2) alternatively, the front of the unit. In other words, you can measure the distance between the front (where the laser is emitted) and an object you aim at -- the measurement displayed is the exact distance in between the unit and the target.

Hi Dan,

I don't have one yet but it's on my wish list.

That's a little better. One sixteenth of an inch, 130' range.

Thanks, that is what I'm looking for.
Dan

from your description i am guessing you will be better served as will she if you start looking for "another" old friend.

It is looking like you are correct but I have to see the numbers if you know what I mean!

I tried adjusting the hood and there is no way to do it with the slots in the hinges, it could be the hinges bent also.

Dan

There is a Greenbook for that. K-jet.org has it down at the bottom of the 200 series list.

TP11410-1 Body (excl. air conditioner) Repairs and Maintenance 240, 260 All Pages

I thought of that too, and checked k-jet.org, but I have a later manual, TP-30824/1 "Body Repairs" which has a foldout sheet with measurements, however this manual still is only 1985. I admit I do not understand the dimensions given on the chassis (identifying reference points) which all appear to be taken from underneath for the purpose of pulling frames out.

But those from above (which you will find in the older k-jet.org copy) seem to reflect all years 75-85, and I *guess* remain the same through '93. But the technique appears to check between rearmost strut mount stud and the brace point on the firewall. So finding them equal (like where you'd put strut braces) left to right might be reassuring.


--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

A lot of money is tainted. 'Taint yours and 'taint mine.

Thanks Art, the strut to strut measurement is about 1/2 short and the firewall to strut diagonal is short by about 1". The other side is fine and matches my 93


I checked the measurements on my good 93 and they seem to be the same except the cowl to straight line across the stud mount is different in my 93 from Specs. This may have changed from the older 240's

I am leaning toward the right side strut was pushed back and in a bit and beyond a simple repair.

Dan