For the same price you get Bilstein Touring over crappy Made in Mexico (it ain't Boge) Sachs.

Sachs is Made in Mexico Boge crap. I bought crappy Made in Mexico crappy nasty useless Sachs Advantage, what iPd and others sell as Boge Turbo Gas.

Actual Made in Germany Boge Turbo Gas is a wholly different species from the crappy Made in Mexico Crappy Sachs. Even the gland nuts, used to secure the strut cartridge in the stut assembly is a worthless piece of Made in Mexico crappy Sachs machining. I re-used the Made in Germany Bog gland nuts.

If made in Germany Boge Turbo Gas was available, and these were the same as what I installed into Volvos, BMWs, Porches, and so forth in the 1980s and 1990s, I'd use these.

Lemforder remains a reputedly good brand for Ball Joints.

What else?

How are them strut mounts? Made by Boge of Germany for Volvo as OEM. Volvo PN 1272455. SKF in the after market may be your next bet. Every 150,00-200,000 mile replacement.

I'd choose Made in Germany Boge rubber bushings. Or buy them from Tasca. There does not exist any rubber bushings for that Volvo 240 in the after market that are worth a shit. Both sets of control arm bushings. For the U.S. market, buy both passenger side rear (large) control arm bushings.

How about them motor mounts and transmission mount?

Inspected the rear suspension? Bushings fail there, too.

Sachs is the ultimate crap. It is better than KYB or Monroe or Gabriel. You'll get slightly better dampening than them factory installed Boge dampeners that came in that 1976 244.

Front wheel bearings? Inspect and service. If you donot know when the rear front wheel bearing seal was replaced, you may want to plan on front hub disassembly, cleaning the bearing with a petroleum spirit or solvent, and repack with an NLGI-2 grease.

How are the rear wheel bearings? Got over 150-200 k miles? You may need to inspect and service the rear wheel hubs, including the parking brake shoes (may require replacement if not already de-laminating as the parking brake shoe material can fail and separate from the brake show backplate).

How is the brake fluid? Anything darker than a clear, if dark, honey color? Use your Motiv brand power brake fluid bleeder.

You also more than likely have a vacuum assist pump on top of the engine or on the North American driver side (intake port side). The diaphragm can fail. You may be able to still get the rebuild kit. The 1976-77 B21 did not pull enough vacuum to operate power brake assist and all the other stuff operated by engine intake vacuum, like the HVAC blower heater / AC flap controls under the dash.

Oh, there's more. But I'll stop now.

Search the brickboard active article index and, separately, search the brickboard ARCHIVES, accessible from the brickboard home page.

I had a 1976 242 DL, with moon roof, manual transmission and steering, with M46 manual transmission. The larger diameter throttle body on the engine air intake makes a better throttle response before the smaller throttle and frequency valve went in.

Lube all door, hood, trunk hinges and handles with heavy spray white lithium grease.

Vacuum leaks on the air intake> Fuel injector o-rings leaking? Need to adjust the clutch cable, if you have a manual transmission? Fluids?

Use green coolant, not orange, in a Volvo. Use distilled water when mixing new coolant.

Read Uncle Art Benstein's www.cleanflametrap.com.

Get your big Blue Bentley Volvo 240 Service Manual Bible.

It goes on.

Questions?

cheers,

MacDuff.
--
If you love it, lube it.