Hi there,

If and when you ever pull the plug again I suggest you examine the new plug and the bung hole fitting in the oil pan.

I caution you not ot over tighen the drain plug as you can strain the threads on the bung or the plug itself.

What usually happen is the threads pull up in the center. Especially the first half lead OD the thread.

You end up with a humped distortion in the bung.
The inside portion of bung thread actually should have its first thread chamfered to create a relief zone.

If I have ever notice a oil drip, I use a smooth flat single cut file and draw file the surface slightly.
I follow up with the flat surface of a sharpening stone. I rub it round and round to get a circular ground flat finish.
The theory goes that this makes longer scratch channels that chase themselves back over upon themselves. Ridges going outward in a spiral.

I have even smoothed the faces of the copper washers after annealing them. Any material that will "cold form" and yet be stable under a limited amount of pressure will seal.
Certain nylons work just as well as copper but is "graded to pressure limits" like copper.

Both can have variances in hardness from processing or punching. You may have gotten a work hardened washer in the batch you had. If in doubt run a torch over them until just past blue to barely glowing evenly to a dull red and quiching in water.

Next before using a newer copper gasket ring make sure that the plug screws all the way up into the hole.
The plug should have a relief cut at the end of the thread and deeper than the root "V" of the threaded body.
You want the plug to screw in all the way by using your fingers only. That way the torque applied will all go onto the copper washer. It needs to be crushed into both flat surfaces and fill any aberrations.

If the thread fits real loose to shaky you might try a pipe thread dope.
I like an aviation product that as I remember is made by SolderSeal called "TightSeal" brand. It Comes in a tin can. It's is a surface to surface sealant or can be used on gaskets as thin as it spreads or smirs. I use the light weight stuff.
It also does not set up in the can like the "tubed" silicone RTV's.

I have, Never, used it on a oil plug though! My thoughts ran wild here I think!


Most of the time I short torque my plug onto a new washer. I use the low end torque tolerance value the first time and on my second oil change I reuse the same washer but take the torque to the upper limit. I usually do not leak oil but on the second use, it might on occasion sweat a film to a drop between oil changes.

It's all up to whether you can keep an inventory of new ones available or not?

The above method is used in the case I get into that PINCH mode!
That is, I run out or I try to PINCH, A few pennies! (:-)


Winter is coming so do it now or let is get scrubbed off.
As far as the tranny mount, you could wire tie some aluminum foil around it but salt love's that stuff!
Thick black plastic might work and stop any moss growth too! (:-)
Phil