So following on the other thread, I wanted to start a new one detailing the removal and installation of the rear wheel bearing on my '92 245. If you saw the other thread, you'll recall that the axle housing had some nasty corrosion inside, so I will also show I dealt with that little surprise.


First, here are the SKF rear wheel bearing kits I purchased - Made in Japan:







The bearing was pre-packed with unknown grease, so I ended up using a bearing packer (never packing bearings by hand again!) to replace the factory grease with Mobil 1 synthetic as you are required to also pack the inner and outer seals. I wanted to ensure compatibility.


Here's the outer seal packed:





But before I could install anything, I had to remove the old worn bearing and retaining ring. It was suggested I just take the axle housing to a machinist to have the bearings pressed on and off. I recently picked up a big old shop press from a local Volvo mechanic (good karma here) who was liquidating some of his old tools. Glad I did as it came in handy for this job. If you have a press, or can get one, this is an easy DIY job, and no need for a machinist. Just go slow and steady.

Here's the press:




It also came with a bunch of fittings and collars that are required to do this job correctly:






But before we get into that, I decided to use an angle grinder to cut a groove in the retainer ring in order to break it off with a hammer and chisel. I've read here and elsewhere online that this is the right procedure:








Because my old bearing had worn so bad, such that the outer race could slide on and off with ease, on this one I just went ahead and used the angle grinder to cut off the loose and rattling cage as well:





That left just the inner race to press off:





Here I have positioned the axle housing in the press with the collar pressing against the inner sleeve leveraged against a couple arbor plates that also came with the press. You'll note that there is a smooth surfaced steel weight between the end of the axle shaft and top of the press (which is rough and gouged) so as to prevent any damage to the spline end:






A few pumps later and the inner race is nearly off. Smooth like butter:





Time for one of these:




Then it's time to reverse the procedure and press on the new bearings. The green book indicates that the bearing and spacer ring are to be pressed on together - at least using the OEM Special Tool vise press. There is also an adapter to be used. I went ahead and did the same without any issue, though again, I used a different Volvo special tool as a spacer between the press and flange end of the axle shaft:





A few pumps later and the finished product:





With this type of press, it is very easy and straight forward. You quickly get used to the feel of the initial resistance and then the smooth transition as the bearing and retaining ring set onto the shaft. Again just go slow and steady making sure everything is aligned correctly and seating properly. It's also important to remember that the lock plate goes on the axle shaft first, followed by the outer seal, then the bearing and finally the retainer ring. Make sure the lock plate and outer seal are facing the correct direction. The lock plate will likely have more corrosion evident on the outer (wheel facing side) and the cavity side of the outer seal (that you just filled with grease) will face toward the differential. Also note that the tapered end of the bearing faced the differential as well.


So with that done it was on to deal with this:





Not having many options here, I jury-rigged an axle housing tool to remove the rust scale. I used to do a bit of wood working, and happened to have a concave bladed wood scraper called a ProPrep. I don't think they're made any more. Anyway, I took a long piece of fuel line pipe and taped it to the end of that in order to reach deep into the axle housing. On the other end I taped a small diameter disc (actually another Volvo Special Tool) to clean out the rust scrapings that fell as I scraped. I didn't want to be scraping anywhere but the rusted section:







Crude, but effective:






Using this technological breakthrough, I was able to clean out virtually all of the oily scale:





After scraping/clearing all of the rust that I could, I jacked up the opposite side of the axle and carefully sprayed in some carb cleaner to help clean out the residue. Then wiped that out. After that, I used the same tool with a new/clean cotton T-shirt on it, to apply a little POR-15 metal ready to VERY carefully apply this rust converter to the remaining surface rust. After letting that set for a bit I used the same process to clean the converter with water, and after careful drying, to then apply a light coating of gear oil, in the perhaps vain hope that this problem area will stabilize. Here's a few shots of the process:







Once the axle housing was thoroughly "rehabilitated" and cleaned again, I proceeded to press the inner seal into place. Again, the green book calls for Special Tools. As above, I have a small collection of some of these Volvo special tools, and although none of them are correct for this specific job, they happen to be quite versatile, and I was able to piece together a little drift unit that pressed the seal into place nicely with a few gentle taps of the mallet. It's a very tight fit, so some form of home brew drift is required:








Once the seal was seated, then it was simply a matter of sliding the axle shaft into the housing with a few wiggles to get the spline end to seat. Once I found the sweet spot, it slid in very easily - almost too easily - which concerns me that the old failed bearing may have caused some material loss to the housing. Time will tell I suppose, and I will have to keep an eye on it for oil seepage. There did not seem to be anything more than the slightest play, but I won't know for sure until it sees the road.






And that's that. Now on to the other side!