Noticed a hot front wheel after a drive. The caliper on that side had a sticky piston. Replaced both front calipers, bled; have good pedal again. But brake-failure light came on.*

Brickboard instructions suggest removing the switch from the valve/junction block and re-centering the valve with eg. a small screwdriver/pick. I removed the switch, spring, and nylon insert. It wasn't clear what to do so I disassembled a spare block - 1st time I've had one apart. Comments/questions:

Operation: If pressure is unequal, the valve slides & grounds the switch which turns the failure light on. The center of the slide has a plastic insulating band so in the correct position there is no ground - correct?

When you remove the switch and reach in with a pick, you don't know which way to move the valve - left or right.

If the valve is sticky, you risk scoring the valve and/or breaking the plastic insulating band. (I did both of these deliberately on the spare valve block). If you break the plastic band, switch is grounded even with the valve centered.

If the valve is sticky, you could remove the block, disassemble, clean gently with fine steel wool, and reuse. But if the valve is that sticky from moisture in old brake fluid, it's probably time for a new block and valve.

This is the 1st time I've had a brake-failure light that didn't reset itself.

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*Bleeding method: I use, until I get good pedal, in this order: 1) vacuum to draw out air and fluid; 2) pressure; 3) pumping the pedal, holding it down (assistant or spring-loaded stick), and releasing the bleeder.

I think (3) caused the problem via too much pedal travel - even though I had a wooden block under the pedal. The master-cylinder is < 1 year old.
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240 drivers / parts cars - JH, Ohio