Hi Paul (BonesandFeathers)!

Excellent! I forgot. Not only would you crimp new ring terminals where the inside diameter of the ring terminal hole is on or slightly large than the post to which you secure, yet you'd also solder the conductor into the crimp for a better bond and a more secure mechanical connection of the ground cable conductor (wire) to the ring terminal at the barrel where you apply the crimp.

Just use the right ring terminal for the application. Not a soft zinc-plate on copper alloy. Something more durable like that the factory installed. I'll guess it's some kind of stainless steel? I dunno.

Then slide the shrink wrap over the ring term crimp to give strain relief between the ground wire conductor insulation and ring terminal barrel with the crimp (now soldered).

Yeah, the hardware securing the wire harness to termination at the back of the alternator can come loose in time. Something to be mindful of on occasion like when we change the oil and filter. Something to check.

Also, please note in Art's image how Art secures the wire harness at the insulated clamp and to termination. (Like what you'd see on the back of your 1979 Volvo 240 alternator set up. There is not all too much room between the alternator aft and the oil filter. Yet as I have manual transmission (no transmission fluid cooling lines), I use the large Fram PH-8A equivalent filters.

You'll note in Art's image I reference there that the ground wire connection appears to use a heavier conductor by a gauge or two. Excellent idea!

Happy Monday!

A. Slight Hangover; MacDuffed.
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Volvo 164: The Mightiest, most Powerful, most Beautiful Volvo Automobile Forever