I had my machinist shorten the driveshaft. He cut 10 3/8 out, turned one of the ends down to fit inside the other 1 inch, then nicely welded a bead around the outside.

11 3/8 seems fine, but I wouldn't go shorter. There is about a half inch of mounting leeway at the center support.

The center joint had a plug where the zurk was, so I just put in a zurk, greased it, then replaced the plug. The joints all seemed fine, not stiff or floppy. I replaced one of the spiders, which seemed to have a open hole where the zurk went, just to be -nal. I used the supplied zurk to pump it full of grease then replaced it with a 10-28 setscrew. The zurk impinged the movement. The parts guys laughed at how tiny these joints were, but I'm sure that minimal rotating mass makes balance less of an issue.

The tranny lid: I drilled out the boss then made up an m16 tap out of a bolt and tapped it out for the lockout switch. I'd recommend an actual tap with the correct size drill. It is NOT a 5/8 thread.

Filled the tranny with 30wND. 1.8 qts or so.

I wired a lighted toggle switch, toggle relay to the lockout it all seemed to make the right clicks. I test drove it to the grocery and got it up to 55 or so, the odrive and driveshaft seem fine. It's a d-type. Shifts firmly right in.

All I have to do now is move the toggle slightly left so I can see the green light, that, and tidy it all up.

I can see (hear) that wind noise will be an impending issue, but the heater works and doesn't leak.


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MPergiel, Walker, MI